
Qass_, 
Book^_ 



BEADBUEY AND GUILD'S EAILEOAD MAPS, NO. 4. 



NEW YORK 



AND THE 



iVHITE MOUNTAINS 



Cnraplftp 3ttD]i, 



fc 



AND 



NUMEROUS WOOD-CUT VIEWS OF THE PRINCIPAL 
OBJECTS OF INTEREST UPON THE LINE. 

BY WILLIAM GUILD. 




BOSTON: " " 

PUBLISHED BY BRADBURY & GUILD, 

120 WASHINGTON STREET. 

18 5 2. 



v^^^- 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1852, 

By dexter S. KING, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts. 



PRESS OF GEO. C. RAND, 

■WOOD CUT AND BOOK PRINTER, 

CORNUILL, liOSTON. 



STEUEOTTPED BY 

HOBART & ROBBINS, 

NEW ENGLAND TYPE AND STEREOTYPE FOUNDKKY, 
-V L'O S T N. 



4. 



% 



<^ 



CONTENTS 



STATIONS. MILES FROM NEW YORK. PAGE. 

VOllKVILLE, 5 15 

HARLEM, 8 15 

MORISSANIA, 9 17 

FORDHAM, 11 17 

\nLLIAMS' BRIDGE, 13 17 

NEW ROCHELLE, 20 19 

MAMARONECK, 23 21 

RYE, 27 22 

PORT CHESTER, 29 22 

GREENWICH, 31 22 

STAMFORD, 36 24 

DARIEN, 41 25 

NORWALK, 44 25 

WESTPORT, 47 26 

SOUTHPORT, 52 26 

FAIRFIELD, 53 27 

BRIDGEPORT, 58 28 

STRATFORD, 62 29 

MILFORD, 68 30 

NEW HAVEN, 76 30 

NORTH HAVEN, 83 33 

WALLINGFORD, 88 34 

MERIDEN, 94 35 

BERLIN, 101 36 

NEW BRITAIN, 104 37 

HARTFORD, llli 37 

WINDSOR, 118 38 

WINDSOR LOCKS, 123i 39 

WAREHOUSE POINT, 127 40 

TIIO:\IPSONVILLE, 129 40 

LONGMEADOW, 133 40 

SPRINGFIELD, 136} 42 

CABOT JUNCTION, 139J U 



CONTENTS. 



STATIONS. MILES FROM NEW YORK. PAGE. 

WILLmANSETT, 143 44 

HOLYOKE, 144 44 

SMITH'S FERRY, 149 45 

NORTHAMPTON, 153 47 

HATFIELD, 15S 48 

AVHATELY, 162i 48 

SOUTH DEERFIELD, 165 48 

DEERFIELD, 169 48 

GREENFIELD, 172 4-9 

BERNARDSTON, 179 50 

SOUTH VERNON, 186 50 

VERNON, 191 51 

BRATTLEBORO', 196 61 

DUMMERSTON, 201 52 

PUTNEY, 205 52 

WESTMINSTER, 215 52 

BELLOWS' FALLS, 220 53 

SOUTH CHARLESTOWN, 224 56 

CHARLESTOWN, 228 56 

NORTH CHARLESTOWN, 233 57 

CLAREMONT, 237 57 

WINDSOR, . . . . • 245i 58 

IIARTLAND, 250 59 

NORTH HARTLAND, 254 59 

WHITE RIVER JUNCTION, 261 59 

NORWICH AND HANOVER, 265^ 61 

OMPOMPANOOSUC, 271 62 

THETFORD AND LYME, 275 63 

NORTH THETFORD, 278 63 

FAIRLEE AND ORFORD, 283 63 

BRADFORD 289 04 

NEWBURY, 297 65 

WELLS RIVER, 301 65 

RYEGATP], 306 66 

McINDOE'S FALLS, 310 66 

BARNET, 313 66 

McLERAN'S FALLS, 315 67 

PASSUMPSIC, 319 67 

ST. JOHNSBURY, 322 67 

THE WHITE ^MOUNTAINS, 71 



INTEODUCTORY. 




HE pleasure travel during the summer, 
;<^^ especially from the middle and southern 
portion of the Union, now sets strongly 
towards the White Mountains. A few 
years since, a journey thither was scarcely 
thought of in connection with the ques- 
tion, "Where shall we go?" A few 
lovers of novelty, anxious to look upon 
the world of nature in her wildest mood, 
made an occasional visit to the summits 
of these noble mountains; but they were looked upon as hardy 
adventurers on their return. Perhaps the principal reason why 
these hills were not sooner discovered, was, the want of an easy 
method of reaching their neighborhood. Water communication 
there was none ; and the comforts of a ride of two or three hundred 
miles by stage, were not likely to attract a great number of persons. 
But all this is now changed. The comfortable railroad car now 
flies daily to the very base of these stupendous heights, upon all 
sides. Upon the north, in going from Portland, you are left at 
G-orham, with a distant view of Mount Washington, the highest of 
the group. On the south you are not so lucky, the cars approaching 
no nearer than Meredith, nearly fifty miles from the mountains. The 
ride, however, from that point, is one of great beauty, and not at all 



6 INTRODUCTORY. 



tedious. On the west, at the termination of the line we are now 
about to describe, there are two points from which the traveller can 
be set down at " Crawford's," after a most charming ride of about 
thirty-five miles. To visitors from New York this is by far the 
best route. The particulars will be found in another place. 

In addition to the White Mountain scenery of this region, Wil- 
LOUGHBY Lake is attracting the notice of travellers. This lake is 
situated between two lofty hills, the sides of which are nearly per- 
pendicular, about twenty miles north of St. Johnsbury. The 
reader will find a description of this charming spot in its proper 
place. 

The distance from New York to St. Johnsbury, which is at 
present the termination of the great Connecticut River Railroad 
line, is 322 miles, and is divided as follows : — 

Harlem Railroad, ?ic 

New York to Williams' Bridge, . . . . ) 

New York and New Haven Railroad, . . . > 

Williams' Bridge to New Haven, Connecticut, ) 

New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield Railroad, > 

New Haven to Springfield, Mass., . . . . ) ^ 

Connecticut River Railroad, > 

Springfield to South Vernon, ) ^ 

Vermont and Massachusetts Railroad, . . . > 

South Vernon to Brattleboro', ) ^ 

Vermont Valley Railroad, 

Brattleboro' to Bellows Falls, 

Sullivan Railroad, } 

V on 
Bellows Falls to Windsor, ) ^ 

Vermont Central Railroad, 



25 



15 
Windsor to White River, ) 

Passumpsic Railroad, ) 

White River to St. Johnsbury, ) 

Total miles 322 



INTRODUCTORY. 



Throughout the entire length of this line there are scarcely a dozen 
miles without some object of interest to an intelligent traveller. 
By far the larger portion of the distance is along the valley of the 
Connecticut River, now running close to the water's edge, to shun 
some precipitous hill, now receding again one or two miles distant ; 
now stretching in a direct line across some extensive meadow, so 
common and so beautiful upon the banks of this far-famed river ; 
and now, when you are sure an approaching hill must be tunnelled, 
dashing across the broad river, high enough above the water to look 
anything but pleasant, to the opposite shore, where there are fewer 
obstacles to a direct way. Neat and thriving villages, also, meet 
your view at almost every bend of the road. During the months 
of June, July and August, when the broad meadows are being 
stripped of their crops, and the landscape is colored with various 
tints by the ripe and ripening grain, the prospect is beautiful and 
enchanting in the extreme. 

Nor is this all. Many points upon this line possess great his- 
torical interest. When viewed by an intelligent traveller, such 
places become fixed in the memory forever, and the whole picture 
rises at once to view whenever the various occurrences are remem- 
bered. 

There is no need of going to France, or to Italy, or to Switzer- 
land, for splendid scenery, for towering mountains and glassy 
lakes. We have them all around us at home. And it needs only 
that the attention of travellers should be directed to many retired 
localities near us to render them as famous as any that Europe can 
boast of. 

Although more especially intended for the White Mountain 
tourist, it is hoped that this work will be found of service to the 
general reader. The wood-cut engravings will be found correct 
and highly valuable for preservation, as views of American scenery. 
All of them were taken from nature, expressly for this work, and 
many of them are views never before published. 

Tables of routes from the main line, generally so difficult to be 



INTRODUCTORY. 



understood, have been entirely omitted. A general map of the 
whole line has been prepared, which can be examined at any time 
without the labor of folding and unfolding, — a task extremely 
inconvenient in a crowded conveyance, as well as an annoyance to 
the possessor and to other passengers. 

The roads will be treated of in the direct order in which they 
occur. The descriptive matter will be necessarily brief, but, it is 
hoped, sufficiently comprehensive for the use of the general trav- 
eller. At various points along the line a delay of one or two days 
is highly desirable to those who have leisure for short excursions 
into the neighborhood. Even a delay of one train will give an indi- 
vidual considerable time to examine objects of interest in the 
vicinity. Passengers, who purchase through tickets, have the privi- 
lege of stopping as long as they please, at any point, and proceed- 
ing in any subsequent train. When such delay is proposed at any 
station not at the termination of either of the roads, it is necessary 
to mention the wish to the conductor, who will endorse your check. 

If this work shall serve to impart such information to the trav- 
eller as shall render his journey more pleasant and interesting than 
it otherwise would have been, the whole design of its author will 
be fulfilled. To one who, in passing over a portion of the country 
never before visited by him or herself, prefers to read a newspaper, 
or the last new novel, he fears the work will be useless. But to 
the traveller who is an observer^ — who belongs to that great, and, 
it is hoped, increasing, class of people denominated, according to 
Webster, the Eyes, it may meet with a more ready reception. 



THE HARLEM RAILROAD 




Tunnel at Yorkvii.le. 



The Harlem Railroad is now completed and in operation to 
Chatham Corners, where it unites with the Western Railroad, 
forming a direct line to Albany. It was one of the first roads 
commenced in America; and, for many years, extended only to 



10 THE HARLEM RAILROAD. 

Harlem, eight miles. Beginning at the station near City Hall, it 
extends through Centre and Broome streets, the Bowery, and 
Fourth Avenue, as far as Twenty-seventh street, where steam is 
taken. From Twenty-seventh-street to Harlem the road has a 
double track, and is perfectly straight. The earth-work, embank- 
ments, and rock-cuttings upon these five miles are very great. A 
large portion of the excavations are of the hardest rock. The tun- 
nel at Prospect Hill, near Yorkville, is, perhaps, the most expen- 
sive portion. It is all cut from rock, and the arch overhead is the 
natural ledge, and, to all appearance, worked off nearly smooth. 
The view given in the accompanying cut is from Yorkville, looking 
north. 

At jMorissania the road crosses what is called Harlem River. 
This is really a separate mouth of the Hudson, which branches off 
some fifteen miles above its principal outlet, forming Manhattan 
Island, upon which the city of New York is built. There is very 
little current running through it, except what is made by the rising 
and falling tide. 

The line now follows up the valley of the Bronx Biver, to Wil- 
liams' Bridge, at which point the New York and New Haven road 
branches off. Above this point the Harlem road continues up the 
Bronx valley nearly to the source of the river, and strikes across 
the country in a nearly direct line to Chatham Corners. 

Upon that portion of the Harlem road between the City Hall 
and Twenty-seventh street, the cars are drawn by horses, the cor- 
poration not allowing steam to be used below Twenty-seventh street. 
The light city cars always go singly, and run every five minutes 
throughout the day, stopping at any place to land or receive pas- 
sengers. The cars which run above Twenty-seventh street, stop 
only at stated places. 

New York is the largest, most wealthy, most flourishing of Amer- 
ican cities ; the great commercial emporium of the United States, 
and one of the greatest in the world. The compact portion of the 
city is built upon the southern end of Manhattan Island, and now 



TUE HARLEM RAILROAD. 11 



extends to Thirteenth street, which is the first street, as you pro- 
ceed northwardly, that runs in a straight line quite across the 
island. The distance from the Battery to this point is nearly three 
miles. Above this, for at least two miles further, the space is 
rapidly being filled up by elegant dwelling-houses. 

No city in the world possesses greater advantages for foreign 
commerce and inland trade. In addition to the main sea approach 
through the Narrows to the harbor, the channel through East River 
to Long Island Sound, and the Hudson River, two long lines of 
canals have increased its natural advantages, and connected it with 
the remote west ; and have rendered it the great mart of a vast 
region, now occupied by industrious millions; while its railroad 
facilities of communication with every quarter have made it the 
great mercantile centre of the nation. Its progress in population, 
trade, and wealth, has probably never been equalled. In 1800, 
the population was but 60,000 ; while, by the late census, it was 
found to be about half a million. 

Manhattan Island is fourteen miles in length, and averages, per- 
haps, one and a half miles in breadth. Its greatest breadth is at 
Eighty-sixth street, and is two miles and a quarter. Hudson 
River bounds it upon the west, East River on the east, while on 
the north it is separated from the main land by Harlem River and 
Spuyten Duyvel Creek. In its natural state the surface was some- 
what hilly and marshy, but these inequalities have been reduced to 
an almost complete level in that portion occupied by the city, the 
ground having merely a gentle slope on each side towards the 
water. The highest point upon the island is near Fort Washington, 
being about 238 feet above the river. 

The harbor, or bay of New York, as it is called, is one of the 
finest in the world ; safe, commodious, and rarely obstructed by the 
ice. It is twenty-five miles in circumference, easy of access, com- 
pletely sheltered from storms, and of sufficient size and depth of 
water to contain the united navies of the world. The principal 
entrance between Statcn and Long Islands is about half a mile 



12 TUE HARLEM RAILROAD. 

wide, and well defended by strong fortifications. There are also 
batteries on several other islands, further up the bay. The varie- 
gated scenery upon its shores, together with the neatly-built cot- 
tages, the country seats of opulent citizens, and the fine view of the 
city in approaching from the " Narrows," impart to this harbor a 
beauty probably unsurpassed by that of any other in the world. 

Many of the streets at the southern extremity of the city are 
narrow and crooked. The greater part of those built latterly are laid 
out with more care. Broadway, the principal street, is eighty feet 
wide, entirely straight, and extends from the Battery to Unioii 
Square, a distance of nearly three miles. It is the great promenade 
of the city, being much resorted to by the gay and fashionable ; and 
few streets in the world exceed it in the splendor and bustle it 
exhibits. Here is a continued stream of carriages, wagons, drays, 
omnibuses, and all sorts of vehicles designed for business or 
pleasure ; on the side-walks, crowds of pedestrians saunter along 
or hurry by, while the sound of various languages meets the ear. 

No person possessing a spark of curiosity should fail to look upon 
Broadway from the spire of Trinity Church. 

This church stands in Broadway, at the head of Wall street. It 
is built throughout of sandstone, without galleries, and cost nearly 
half a million of dollars. The height of its spire is 283 feet. 
Visiters have access to the tower at all times, except when the 
building is occupied for religious purposes. A small fee is 
expected by the person in attendance. This tower affords the most 
splendid panoramic view to be seen on this continent. Ascending 
the stairway, you reach a landing on a level with the ceiling of the 
church, from which there is a view of the elegant interior. You 
next reach the belfry, where the chime bells are hung, which so 
frequently ring out their solemn peal. Upon reaching the highest 
landing, a most superb view meets your gaze. The city, busy with 
life and animation, lies at your feet, spread out like a map; while, 
far and wide, in every direction, the country, rivers, villages, and 



THE HARLEM RAILROAD. 13 



islands are scattered before you, arrayed in all the attractions with 
which nature and art have invested them. 

Many other buildings in the city will repay one the trouble of a 
visit, but it is not necessary to give a more extended description of 
them here. The Exchange and the Custom House are among the 
first in importance. 

Besides many objects within the city worthy of notice, visiters 
will find much in the immediate vicinity to interest them. Green- 
wood Cemetery, and the Navy Yard, at Brooklyn, Rockaway Beach, 
Fort Hamilton, Coney Island, Hoboken, &c., claim the notice of 
strangers. These are all noticed in the various guide-books of the 
city. 

New York has been, for a long" time, celebrated for her fine 
hotels. Probably in no other city in the United States can a 
traveller find so much attention paid to his comfort as here. 
Standing preeminent among the first class, is the new "Metro- 
politan Hotel, in Broadway, at the corner of Prince and Crosby 
streets. This immense building, a fine view of which is given upon 
the following page, built upon the site of Niblo's Garden, has been 
leased by the Messrs. Leland, formerly of Clinton Hotel. It is 
built of brown stone, six stories high, and has a frontage upon 
Broadway of five hundred and twenty-six feet. It has one hundred 
suits of apartments, each comprising parlor, bed-room, and dressing- 
room, the latter supplied with hot and cold water, and all heated 
by steam. Of course, besides these, there are a large number of 
single rooms, similarly furnished. In the richness of the furniture 
and fixtures, no house in America can compare with it. Next to a 
good home is a good hotel ; and it seems to have been the study of 
the projectors of this immense building to make travellers forget 
they have any other home. 

But we are seated in the railroad car, and are now being slowly 
drawn through the densely packed streets by horses. Along the 
Bowery, aside from the ceaseless throng ever shuffling along the 
sidewalk, or rattling over the pavement, the prospect is not over 



THE UAllLEM RAILROAD. 15 

enchanting ; but above Union Park, the cars pass some splendid 
dwellings. At Thirty-first street, the locomotive is waiting. From 
this point to Williams' Bridge Junction, the New Haven trains 
rarely stop. We will, however, notice the stations as they are 
passed. 

YoRKViLLE, five miles, is a mere village, one of the many 
suburbs of New York. The station is on the left, soon after enter- 
ing the deep rock cut, just before reaching the Prospect Hill tunnel. 
The gi*eat receiving reservoir of the Croton water-works, covering 
thirty-jive acres, is but a quarter of a mile west of this station. 
Passing the tunnel, we arrive at a lono;, hio;h embankment and 
bridge, across a valley, the view from which is highly picturesque. 
The traveller will not fail to wish for more time to look about him ; 
yet, notwithstanding the transient view that he obtains, he will 
never forget it. On the north, upon the sloping highlands of the 
island, is the Orphan Asylum, the Roman Catholic College, founded 
by Bishop Hughes, and many other smaller edifices. The hill-top 
is crowned with the ruins of Fort Washington, where, during the 
Revolution, the American arms sustained a defeat, and 2600 men 
surrendered themselves prisoners of war. In the distance are the 
Palisade rocks, on the west bank of the Hudson. On the south, 
across East River, are the hills and shores of Long Island Sound. 
Great Barn Island, situated close to "Huid Gate," is directly be- 
tween, and close at hand. 

Harlem, or Haerlem, eight miles from the City Hall, is quite a 
manufacturing place. It is situated upon a plain, and was founded 
by the Dutch, with a view to the amusement and recreation of the 
citizens. The cars run between the city and Harlem many times 
daily. Omnibuses also run, every fifteen minutes, over the Third 
Avenue, a beautiful Macadamized road. 

From Harlem, carriages take visiters to the " High Bridge," so 
called, about three miles distant. It is the viaduct which carries 
the Croton water across Harlem River. It is built of stone, 1450 
feet long, with fifteen arches, eight of them of eighty feet span, and 



16 



THE HARLEM RAILROAD. 



seven of fifty feet span, the top being one hundred and fourteen 
feet above the water. It is a splendid structure, and well worth a 
visit. It cost over one million of dollars. 




View of High Bridge. 



The water which is carried over this bridge is taken from Croton 
River, five miles from the Hudson, and forty miles from New York 
city. The dam, at that point, is two hundred and fifty feet long, 
and forty feet high, creating a pond five miles in length, and cov- 
ering four hundred acres. From the dam the aqueduct proceeds, 
near the banks of the Hudson, across streams and valleys, by 
embankments and bridges, to Harlem River, where it crosses, and 
follows down Manhattan Island, on the high ground, to the great 
reservoir at Eighty-second street. This is built of stone, and 
nearly square, covering an area of thirty-five acres, and capable of 
containing one hundred and fifty millions of gallons. It is divided 
into two divisions, by means of a partition wall, either basin of 
which can be filled at pleasure. From this the aqueduct proceeds, 
as before, to the distributing reservoir, at Fortieth street, another 
splendid stone structure, though smaller than the first ; and from 
thence the water is distributed through the city by means of iron 



NEW YORK AND NEW KAVEN RAILROAD. 17 

pipes, of which there are more than two hundred miles, from six to 
thirty-six inches in diameter. The whole cost of the Croton water- 
works will exceed fourteen millions of dollars. It is by far the 
greatest work of the kind of modern times. 

MoRRissANiA, just after crossing Harlem River, is the next sta- 
tion. Between this place and Mott Haven, another station, 
many buildings have been erected during the past five years, and 
occupied by individuals doing business in the city. Trains run 
many times daily, each way, and passengers are landed at City 
Hall, directly in the centre of the city. 

FoRDiiAM, eleven miles and a half. This is a small and 
unimportant village. It is the seat of St. John's College, a 
Roman Catholic institution, established in 1841. It is a large and 
commodious edifice, built upon a beautiful sloping lawn, bordered 
with large trees. It is close to the railroad on the south, and is 
really a place of great beauty. 

Williams' Bridge, thirteen miles and a half, about a mile and 
a half south of the junction of the New Haven Railroad, is the next 
station, considered the terminus of that road. There are very few 
buildings of any kind in the neighborhood. Its only importance 
arises from the fact that it is the junction of the two roads. We 
now cross the Bronx River, a small stream, and enter upon the 
New York and New Haven Railroad. 



NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN 
RAILROAD. 

This is one of the most important lines in America. It is sixty- 
one miles in length, extending from its junction with the Harlem 
road to tlie city of New Haven, in Connecticut ; and must forever 
remain, without fear of competition, the only direct land route be- 
tween New York city and the Connecticut River valley ; including, 
2 



18 NEW YORK AND NEW HAYEN RAILROAD. 

of course, nearly the whole of the eastern travel. During the 
summer season, several small steamboats navigate the Sound, stop- 
ping at Norwalk, Bridgeport, &c. ; yet, for several years, the 
railroad has competed successfully with these, and, at all times, 
commands the bulk of the travel. 

The New Haven road was chartered in 1844, yet, by reason of 
eonflictins: interests, nothino; was done towards buildino: the road 
until the spring of 1847, when ground was broken at several 
points, and the work went vigorously on. In the month of Decem- 
ber, 1848, the road was opened for travel. 

Nearly the whole distance to New Haven, this line follows along 
within a few miles of the shores of Long Island Sound, frequently 
crossing the wide arms of it at the mouths of the principal rivers, 
which extend some distance inland. In consequence of thus cross- 
ing the streams at right angles, there is a continued succession of 
rising and falling grades to overcome the summits in the intervals. 
More than half the distance the grades are from thirty to forty feet 
per mile. Yet all the summits are light ; only one, which is about 
two miles from the Harlem junction, being more than one hundred 
feet above high tides. 

The road is well calculated for high speed, the express trains 
making thirty miles per hour, without difficulty. Many trains are 
run each way daily, part of which, only, stop at the way stations. 
The road is capitally managed, all its officers being practical busi- 
ness men, thoroughly acquainted with all the various duties incident 
to their stations. 

Leaving the Harlem road at the junction, the cars rise by a 
forty-foot grade for a distance of nearly two miles. The Harlem 
track follows along the Bronx valley, close at hand, for most of this 
distance, until a sharp curve in the New Haven road, as we ap- 
proach the Chester summit, hides it from view. At this summit, 
which is the highest on the line, there is a very extensive cutting in 
rock, one of the last points upon the road completed. We are now 
one hundred and nineteen feet above the Sound. Passing this, wo 



NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. 



19 



enter a descending plane, to East Chester Creek, the valley of 
which is quite wide and beautiful. Ascending another light sum- 
mit, and descending as before, bring us to 




New Rochellk Station'. 



New Rochelle, twenty miles from New York. The station 
here is built directly over the track. The traveller will be struck 
with the taste displayed in the construction of the stations on this 
road. Nearly the whole of them are built after one design, and 
make a very pretty appearance. 

New Rochelle was settled by Huguenots, from Rochelle, in 
France ; the village is about one fourth of a mile from the station, 
pleasantly situated at the head of a small bay setting up from Long 
Island Sound. A steamboat plies daily with New York. This 
village is neatly situated, overlooking the Sound, the greater part 
of the buildings being constructed with great taste and regularity. 
Many persons doing business in New York have their residences 
at New Rochelle, and pass to and from, either by the cars or 
steamboat, daily. The number of these is fast increasing. Before 
many years, aided by the efforts of the railroad company, who have 
placed the commutation fare at the lowest remunerative rate, this 
will become a place of considerable importance. 

New Rochelle was, for several years, the residence of Thomas 



20 



NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. 



Paine. He died here, in 1809; and, at his own request, the fol- 
lowing inscription was placed upon his monument : — 

" Thomas Paine, author of Common Sense, died June 8, 1809, 
aged 72 years." 

The monument, of which the following is a correct representation, 
stands upon what was formerly a part of his own estate. 




w 



MONUMEXT OF THOMAS PAINE. 

Soon after leaving New Rochelle, the traveller will have a fine 
view of the Sound, through a group of trees upon the south, with 
the shores of Long Island in the distance. There are numerous 
places upon the New Haven road where, for a short distance, there 
is a charming view of the Sound, dotted here and there with the 
white sails of the numerous coasting vessels with which the water 



NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. 



21 



is perpetually covered. These fine, though transitory, pietui"es 
add much to the pleasure of a summer trip over this road. 




HOBLKTS. 

Mamaroneck Village, nkar the Station. 



Mamaroneck, twenty-three miles and a half, is the next station. 
The village, which lies upon the shores of the Sound, about half 
a mile distant, is hid from view by a slight rise of ground inter- 




Mamaronkck Crossing 




vening. Between the railroad station and the village, just upon 
the brow of the hill, there is a fine view of the Sound and Long 
Island, with the village of Mamaroneck spread out close at hand. 

Mamaroneck Creek, a small stream, falls into the Sound a short 
distance from the station. The bridpje over the stream is a fine 



22 NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. 

structure, built of faced granite, and arelied. There is also a deep 
rock cut near the station. 

Rye, twenty-seven miles. The station here is half a mile north 
of the main village. The town has an uneven surface, and a cold, 
clayey soil. It is watered by several streams, Blind Brook, near 
the station, being the largest. 

Port Chester, twenty-nine miles. Here is a large and thriving 
village ; though many of the buildings have an appearance of anti- 
quity about them, especially those near the water. It is situated 
directly at the mouth of Byram River, the dividing line between 
New York and Connecticut. Several schooners are owned here, 
and a steamboat plies daily with New York. 

Crossing Byram River, we are in Connecticut. The line fol- 
lows along over a rough and rocky district, to 

Greenwich, thirty-one miles and a half. There are three vil- 
lages in the town, the most important one being at the south-west 
part, and near this station. This is sometimes called Horseneck, 
from a peninsula on the Sound near by, formerly used as a pas- 
turage for horses. The country, for several miles around, is unu- 
sually wild and savage in its aspect, large masses of rocks being 
scattered about in great disorder. Yet, where cultivated, the soil is 
good, and fitted for every production of the climate. 

There are several small streams, which discharge their waters into 
the Sound, on the southern border of the town, of which the Miannus 
is the largest. 

This town was purchased of the Indians, in 1640, by the Dutch, 
then located at New Amsterdam, or New York. The Indians, 
having for some cause taken a great dislike for the Dutch, after a 
time began to annoy the inhabitants. These proceedings at length 
led to open hostilities, and a general battle was fought between the 
two parties on that part of Horse Neck called Strickland's Plains. 
The action was long and severe, both parties fighting with great 
obstinacy. The Dutch, however, kept the field, and the Indians 
withdrew. This action took place in 1646. 



NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAI . 



23 





UTNAM'S HILL, or PuVs Ridge, as it is called, 
is in Greenwich, the cars passing it through a 
very deep rock cutting, a few rods east of the 
station, where the hill is most abrupt. This 
place is celebrated for the daring exploit of 
General Putnam, who descended its steep and 
rocky sides, upon horseback, when pursued by British dragoons. 
The place is considerably altered since the Revolution. A small 
Episcopal church formerly stood on the brow of the hill. The 
members of the congregation who lived below the hill, in order to 
save the tedious circuit of going round in the road, when walking to 
church, built a rude set of stone steps up the steep precipice, near 
the church, to accommodate foot passengers. It was at this place 
that the occurrence took place. 

Governor Tryon, the British commander, was approaching this 
spot from Horse Neck, in February, 1779, with a body of fifteen 
hundred men. General Putnam planted two iron field-pieces 
near the meeting-house, without horses or drag-ropes. Having 
fired his cannon several times, Putnam, perceiving the dragoons, 
supported by the infantry, about to charge, ordered his men, about 
one hundred and fifty in number, to provide for their safety, and 
secured his own by plunging down the precipice at full trot. The 



24 NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. 

dragoons, who were but a few rods from him, stopped short, struck 
with astonishment at his daring flight. No one dared follow him ; 
and before they could gain the valley, by going round in the road, 
he was far beyond their reach. As soon as they recovered some- 
what from their amazement, probably waiting to see him and his 
horse dashed to pieces, several shots were fired at him, one of 
which passed through his hat. 

Soon after leaving Greenwich, the road crosses the Miannus 
Kiver upon a bridge forty feet above the water. The village of 
Coscob, or East Greenwich, stands one mile north of this bridge, on 
the west bank of the stream. There is a fine view of the Sound 
from this bridge, on the south. 




MI" ' VD St 



Viaduct oter Mill River. 

Further on, the line crosses Mill or Stamford River upon an 
arched stone viaduct. All the larger bridges upon this line, being 
built within the influence of the tide, are of timber. Those across 
the smaller streams are of stone, and arched. 

Stamford, thirty-six miles and a half. The Indian name of this 
place was Rippoivams. It was purchased of the Indians by Cap- 
tain Nathaniel Turner, about 1640, for "twelve coats, twelve hoes, 
twelve hatchets, twelve knives, two kettles, and four fathoms of 
white wampum." A reservation of planting ground was made for 
the Indians. 

Stamford is now one of the prettiest villages upon the line. It is 



NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. 25 

about half a mile north of the station. The streets and buildings 
have an air of neatness and order about them, which is not often 
seen. The town is well supplied with mill-seats by Mill and 
IMiannus Rivers, both of which run through the entire length of it. 
It has a fine harbor at the mouth of Mill or Stamford River, for 
vessels of eight feet draught and less. Besides this, a canal has 
been cut from an arm of the Sound to the village, affording abun- 
dant means of intercourse with other towns upon the coast by water. 
The country round in the vicinity is full of interesting scenery. 

Leaving Stamford, there is a rising grade to overcome a consid- 
erable summit in Darien. Upon reaching this high ground, it im- 
mediately changes to a descending plane ; and at Norwalk, only 
three miles distant, the line is again close to tide water. 

Darien, forty-one miles, is the next station. This is an agricul- 
tural town. The village is situated upon a small stream, which 
falls into a narrow bay that sets up from the Sound. 

Norwalk, forty-four miles and a half. This is one of the most 
flourishing towns in the state. The principal village is situated 
upon Norwalk River, one mile and a half from the Sound. Here 
is a tliriving and very pretty village, built upon both sides of the 
river, and connected by a bridge. Vessels of light draught come 
up to the village, while the steamboats, and those drawing more 
than seven feet, land at the south village, near the mouth of the 
river. The station is at the south village. There is constant 
intercourse, however, between the two, by means of a short branch 
road, which joins the main road at the station. Cars are run over 
this branch to meet every outward and inward train. 

Like Stamford, this town was purchased of the Indians, about 
the year 1640. There is something exceedingly amusing in the 
account of these land sales, given in the old records. There was 
evidently very little litigation in those days, or the sharp-eyed 
traders would have grumbled at some of the terms of the contracts. 
For- instance, in the ancient records, the bounds of Norwalk are 
stated to be "from Norwalk River to Saukatuck (now Saugatuck) 



26 NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. 

Kiver, from sea, Indian one day walk into the country ^ The 
worth of such a tract might be supposed to depend somewhat upon 
the inducements offered the " Indian " to "walk." For the above- 
mentioned tract, the following articles were given, viz. : "8 fath- 
oms wampum, 6 coats, 10 hatchets, 10 hoes, 10 knives, 10 scizers, 
10 juseharps, 10 fathom tobacco, 3 kettles, 3 hands-about, and 10 
looking-glasses." The following articles were given to the Indians 
for the tract "from Norwalk River to Five-mile River, from sea, 
Indian one day walk in country," viz. : " 10 fathom wampum, 3 
hatchets, 3 hoes when ships come, 6 glasses, 12 tobacco-pipes, 3 
knives, 10 drillers, 10 needles." The name of Norwalk is derived 
from the above bargains, the northern boundaries being one day's 
north walk into the country. 

Norwalk was burned by the British under Grovernor Try on, July 
11, 1779. Six houses only remained undestroyed. 

Leaving Norwalk, we cross the river upon another long wooden 
bridge, forty feet above the water, and strike across a level 
tract to 

Westport, forty-seven miles and a half. This town lies at the 
mouth of the Saugatuck River. The village, which is one of con- 
siderable size, is about three miles from the Sound, and built on 
both sides of the stream, a bridge connecting the two divisions. 

The country round Westport is romantic. Ball Mountain, near 
the village, is a conical eminence, covered with large trees from its 
base to its summit, and is a striking feature in the landscape. 

SouTHPORT, fifty-two miles, is the next station. There is a large 
and thriving village here. It is situated at the mouth of Mill 
River, in the south-westerly corner of the town of Fairfield, about 
two miles from the centre village. It has a fine harbor for vessels 
of one hundred tons, rarely frozen over, and considerable business 
from coasting vessels. 

Directly back of the village, and north of the station, is the cele- 
brated Pequot swamp, where that once powerful and warlike tribe 
of savages, in July, 1637, made their last stand against the forces 



NEW YORK AND NEW UAVEN RAILROAD. 



27 



of Massachusetts and Connecticut, under Captain Mason. In this 
conflict the Pequots received their final overthrow, and their exist- 
ence as a tribe was ended. After the Pequot fort at Mystic was 
destroyed, a large body of the tribe took refuge in this swamp. 






l-fc^A^ 




SocTUP^uT Statiox. 



One of their number, loitering behind the rest, was discovered by 
the English, and forced to disclose the place of their retreat. One 
hundred of them surrendered. The rest, resolved to live or die 
together, were attacked and utterly destroyed. 

Fairfield, fifty-three miles and three quarters. This is one of 
the best farming towns in the state. The surface is level, or gently 
undulating ; the soil excellent. The villages of Southport, Green 
Farms, and Grreenfield, are all in this town. 

Black Rock harbor, about two miles from the centre of the town, 
is, next to New London, the best harbor upon Long Island Sound ; 
having nineteen feet of water at summer tides. It is also safe and 
commodious. During the last war with England, a small fort was 
erected on an eminence which commanded the entrance of this 
harbor, and a small body of militia were maintained as garrison for 
a short time. 

Fairfield was burned by Governor Tryon, in 1779. The trav- 
eller will doubtless call to mind several other similar outrages of 
this kind, previously mentioned, of this brave general. In fact, it 



28 NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. 

seemed to have been the policy of the British commanders to employ 
this man to perform all acts of a barbarous kind which they wished 
to inflict; inasmuch as we are told that "wherever Tryon and his 
Hessian soldiers landed, the inhabitants fled, knowing that then- 
houses would be burned." 

In this case, the British landed upon the beach on the 8th of 
July, 1779. The expedition was so sudden, that no preparations 
had been made by the inhabitants to meet them ; yet a few col- 
lected together, and for a time prevented the advance of their 
invaders. But they were soon overpowered ; the town was plun- 
dered, and over two hundred buildings, including two churches, an 
elegant court-house, and a large number of barns, just filled with 
hay and grain, were reduced to ashes. The next day, they pro- 
ceeded to the little village of Green Farms, and burnt a church, 
the parsonage, and about forty other buildings. The distress occa- 
sioned by these outrages was said to have been extreme. 

Four miles beyond Fairfield, near Bridgeport, the traveller will 
be able to catch a view of Iranistan, the country seat of P. T. 
Barnum, the wealthy proprietor of the American Museum, in New 
York city, and well known, both in this country and in Europe, 
as the guardian of the famous Tom Thumb. It is built in the 
eastern style of architecture, and surrounded by large shade trees. 
The tall, dome-like spires, which rise above the surrounding scenery, 
give the place a very romantic appearance ; and, at a distance, it 
might well be taken for a Turkish villa. 

Bridgeport, fifty-eight miles and a half, formerly called New- 
field. It is compactly built, and is one of the most beautiful and 
flourishing places in New England. It was formerly a part of 
Stratford; but, in 1821, it was set off as a town by itself, and in 
1836 was incorporated as a city. It is located on an elevated 
plain, on the west side of an arm of Long Island Sound, and com- 
mands extended views of the surrounding country. The ground on 
which the city is built is elevated about fifteen feet above high 
water. In the rear of the city, another more elevated plain com- 






NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN BAILROAD. 20 

mences, which gradually rises to the height of fifty feet above the 
lowc^r town, and aflfords some splendid locations for private dwell- 
ings. The main part of the city is built with great neatness and 
elegance. The harbor is safe ; but the navigation for large vessels 
is impeded by a bar at its mouth, of about thirteen feet of water 
at high tide. Still a large business is done here in the coasting 
trade, some in foreign commerce, and some in fisheries. 

There is a bridge across the harbor, 1300 feet in length, with a 
draw for the passage of vessels. The city is watered by the Pequa- 
nuc River, affording some water power. Carriage-making and 
saddlery are carried on here to considerable extent, and a large 
amount is annually exported. An extensive carriage-factory has 
recently been built by an incorporated company on the east side of 
the river, near the railroad bridge, a view of which is had from the 
cars. 

The distance across the Sound, at Bridgeport, is 18 miles. On 
the north, Bridgeport receives considerable business from the Hou- 
satonic Raikoad, extending to the Western Railroad at Stockbridge, 
a distance of ninety-six miles. This road was completed in 1842, 
atacostofS2,000,000. 

After leaving Bridgeport, the line follows along the wharves 
of the city, and crosses the Pequanuc River upon a pile bridge. 
Thence it crosses a level plain to 

Stratford, sixty-two miles. This town was originally called 
Cupheag. Its surface is level, lying directly upon the Sound ; and 
it has a large tract of meadows upon the Housatonic River and 
harbor. The principal street, about one mile in length, running 
north and south, is ornamented with fine shade trees. 

One mile beyond Stratford, the line crosses the Housatonic 
River upon a long covered wooden bridge. At the easterly end of 
this bridge, the Naugatuck Railroad branches off to the north, up 
the valley of the river. This road extends from Bridgeport to 
Winsted, Conn., a distance of sixty-two miles. From Bridgeport 
to the junction, it follows parallel with the New York road ; and 



30 NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. 

from thence it follows up the Housatonic river to Derby, where it 
strikes the Naugatuck Kiver, which it follows to its termination at 
Winsted. 

MiLFORD, sixty-six miles and a half, is one of the oldest towns in 
the state. It is situated at the mouth of Wopowaug River, on 
which there are several fine mill seats There are no mountains, 
and very little broken land in the town. The soil is productive. 
There is a quarry of serpentine marble in the eastern part, but it is 
not now worked. 

Milford Point, at the south-west part of the town, is noted as 
being the head-quarters of the clam and oyster fisheries, of which 
large quantities are taken annually. 

New Haven, seventy-six miles from New York, is the principal 
city in Connecticut. It was formerly called Red Mount, doubtless 
from the appearance of those two prominent elevations near at hand, 
East and West Rocks. Its Indian name was Quinnipiac. 

New Haven is beautifully situated upon a small bay, making up 
from Long Island Sound, in a large plain, surrounded on three 
sides by lofty and precipitous hills. The harbor is spacious and 
safe, but shallow, and said to be rapidly filling up. A wharf ex- 
tends down the harbor nearly three quarters of a mile. A canal, 
seventy-six miles in length, was built, many years since, to connect 
the waters of this harbor with the Connecticut River, at Northamp- 
ton, Mass. ; but it is now abandoned. 

The city of New Haven is regularly laid out, and prettily built, 
many of the houses having gardens, or neatly kept grounds, attached 
to them, and some of the principal streets, and the principal square, 
are mostly ornamented with large elm trees. The College Green ^ 
as it is called, is a large square, containing about fifteen acres. It 
is divided into two sections by Temple street, and this is lined with 
stately trees. The eastern section is entirely free from buildings. 
On the western section, there are three churches, facing the south- 
east, two of which are built of brick, and one of stone. In the rear 
of the centre church stands the State House. Further on, are the 






NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAU. 31 

Yale College buildings ; and these, taken in connection with the 
surrounding scenery, the churches, and the State Houco, form a 
gi'oup not often equalled in this country. 

Yale College is one of the most ancient and celebrated institutions 
of learning in America. It was founded in 1701. There are four 
college halls, each four stories high, and each containing thirty-two 
rooms for students ; and another devoted to the use of theological 
students. Besides these, there are two other buildings, called the 
Athenaeum and the Lyceum, appropriated to recitation and lecturss, 
and several smaller edifices. New Haven has many subordinate 
seminaries, both male and female, of high reputation. In 1842, 
there were twenty-five select schools and seminaries ; and it may 
be safely estimated that as many as 2500 pupils receive instruction 
here every year. 

Considerable attention is paid to the manufacturing interest in 
New Haven. Her mechanics have long been distinguished for 
industry and intelligence. There are two societies for the promo- 
tion of the useful arts, and the encouragement of merit, both of 
which have small libraries. 

Across Quinnipiak River, on the east, stands the village of Fair- 
haven, a place which owes most of its prosperity to the oyster trade. 
Large quantities of these shell-fish are taken at the mouth of the 
Quinnipiak and Mill Rivers, both of which fall into New Ka,ven 
bay. 

New Haven is the terminus of the New York and New Haven 
Raili'oad. The station at this place is built directly over the track, 
which renders the lower part dark and unpleasant. The rooms 
above, however, are elegant and commodious. The building is 
quite an ornament to the city. 



32 NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. 



NEW HAVEN, HARTFOKD, AND 
SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. 

This road is sixty-one miles in length, extending from New 
Haven to Springfield, Massachusetts. Beginning at New Haven, it 
follows up the Quinnipiak River to the summit at Meriden, thence 
it descends to a branch of Little River, which it follows to Hartford. 
From Hartford to Springfield, the line is located along the banks 
of the Connecticut River. The grades, as far as Hartford, are very- 
irregular, there being many planes of three or four hundred feet 
each, varying from level to thirty-eight feet per mile inclination. 
The whole distance, however, is frequently run in one hour, the 
road being comparatively straight, and the curves easy. This road 
is kept in perfect repair, and managed with great wisdom and judg- 
ment. Although it was one of the very first roads completed in 
New England, very few accidents have ever occurred upon it. 

From Hartford to Springfield, the grades are easy, and the road 
straight. There is no inclination of more than twenty feet per mile, 
and that only for a very short distance. 

Immediately after leaving the station at New Haven, the cars 
pass under nine bridges, all of which serve to carry the streets of 
the city over the track. This is considered a highly advantageous 
arrangement, serving to render accidents to the citizens of rare occur- 
rence. Crossing the mouth of Mill River, the first object which 
catches the eye of the traveller is East Rock, situated a little north 
of the line. 

This rock is about five hundred feet high. It is principally trap 
rock, composed of hornblende and feldspar. Iron enters consider- 
ably into their composition; hence, during their decomposition, 
iron-rust gradually covers the exterior of the stone, giving it a 
reddish-brown appearance. The front is composed of a vast assem- 



NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. 33 

blage of columns, more or less regular, and full of cracks and 
fissures, from which cause it gradually crumbles away. A vast 




View of East Rock. 



pile of debris and broken rock covers more than one half of the 
entire front face. Many of the broken pieces are large, and vast 
quantities of the rock are used every year in building. 

West Kock is entirely similar to this elevation, only perhaps not 
quite so high. There is a place upon the top of West Eock, called 
" Judge's Cave," celebrated as having been the place of retreat of 
the Regicides, in 1661. 

Both of these hills are easy of ascent from the back sides ; and 
the view from the front is highly picturesque. 

Following up the Quinnipiak River, the traveller will not fail to 
notice the extensive and beautiful meadows on the right, both sides 
of the river. These meadows produce large quantities of gi-ass, 
which is mowed and stacked up on the ground until winter, when it 
is removed. The appearance of these stacks, in the fall of the year, 
is very enchanting. A large part of this meadow is saU ; but some 
portions are protected by means of dikes, and there the grass is 
fresh, and of a better quality. 

North Haven, eighty-three miles, was set off from New Haven, 
. 3 



34 NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. 

in 1786. This town is celebrated as having been the residence of 
Dr. Benjamin Trumbull, the historian of Connecticut. For more 
than fifty years he resided here as pastor, and died 1820, aged 85. 
He was universally beloved. 

Leaving North Haven, the line crosses a barren, sandy plain, 
more than four miles in length. It is said to be the most sterile 
tract of land in the state. In other parts adjacent the soil is ex- 
cellent. 

Wallingford, eighty-eight miles. Near this station, on the 
Quinnipiak River, there is a large manufactory of wood-screws, of 
which more than a thousand gross are daily turned off. The main 
village is one mile from the station, upon the brow of a hill. It 
can be seen for some distance, as the cars pass by. The main 
street is over one mile in length. 

Lyman Hall, one of the signers of the Declaration of Indepen- 
dence, was a native of this town. He graduated at Yale College, in 
1747, went to G-eorgia, and established himself there as a physician. 
He took an early and decided part in defence of colonial rights, and 
was chosen a delegate to the General Congress, in 1775. Dr. Hall 
was afterwards governor of Greorgia. He died in 1790. 




The Hakginq Hills, from near Meridbn. 



NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. 



35 



Near Wallingford station, the traveller will get a view of the 
Hanging Hills, a series of abrupt elevations, near Meriden, on 
the north. These peaks rise, one after another, in regular order, 
like a series of waves. They seem to bear to the south-west, at 
which point their faces are the most abrupt. Some years since, a 
road was constructed through a narrow and romantic glen, in these 
hills, from Meriden to Berlin. This pass is more than a mile in 
extent, and in some places there is but barely room for a path. It is 
called the Cat Hole. The sides and summits of these hills are fre- 
quently resorted to, during the summer, by pleasure parties. 

Continuing up the line, we pass Yalesville, across the river, 
noted for its Britannia wares ; and, after passing a very abrupt cut- 
ting in red sand-stone at Holt's Hill, reach 




Sand-stone Cutting near Meriden. 



Meriden, ninety-four miles. This station is exactly half way 
between Hartford and New Haven. Meriden is one of the most 
enterprising and flourishing manufacturing towns in the state. The 
main village stands upon an eminence, half a mile south of the sta- 



36 NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD, 

tion, and the view of it, as the cars leave, is highly picturesque. 
Since the completion of the railroad, quite a cluster of buildings has 
sprung up around the station, and probably this will become the 
principal village, before many years. The chief articles of manu- 
facture are augers and auger-bits, combs, tin-ware, rakes, door- 
latches, and block-tin spoons. There are also two iron foundries 
here. 

One mile beyond this station is the highest point upon the road, 
being elevated 166^ feet above tide water at New Haven. A short 
distance beyond this, the line passes a precipitous hill upon the 
right, which is situated in Berlin, and about two miles distant. Its 
front shows much the same appearance as the Hanging Hills just 



Berlin, one hundred and one miles. All the trains, both ways, 
stop at this station ; it being the junction of the branch to JMiddle- 
town. Upon this branch the cars run to connect with each out- 
ward and inward train. 

Berlin is a large town, and contains several villages, of which 
New Britain, situated in the northern part, is the largest. Worth- 
ington, two miles from this station, is noted as being the place 
where the manufacture of tin ware was first attempted in this coun- 
try. About the year 1740, Mr. Wm. Patterson, a native of Ire- 
land, came to this country and settled in Worthington. Being a 
tinner by trade, he commenced manufacturing the ware, at first, 
moderately. He was obliged, at the outset, to peddle his own 
wares about the neighboring villages. At length, the value of his 
manufactures becoming known, he was enabled to use teams ; hence 
the glistening, rattling, tin pedlar's wagon, a sight so common now 
that a noted writer declared that it was ' ' impossible to travel fifty 
miles in New England without meeting as many of these non- 
descript carriages, half of which have sheep-skins dangling behind ; 
the remainder, sacks of white and brown rags!" However this 
may be, it is certain that the manufacture of tin is now more ex- 
tensive than of almost any other article of household use. 



NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. 37 

New Britain, one hundred and four miles. The village is sit- 
uated one mile north of the station. It has several manufactories, 
principally of brass works, which employ about one thousand per- 
sons ; three churches, and a population of over two thousand. 

Three miles beyond this station, the Hartford, Providence, and 
Fishkill road approaches upon the north, and hence to Hartford 
both tracks are parallel, forming simply a double way. At this 
point, also, the line strikes Little River, which it follows down to 




IIautford Station. 



Hartford, one hundred and eleven and one half miles. Here 
is one of the prettiest stations in New England, at once neat, com- 
modious, and well arranged inside, and an ornament to the city. 
This station is used by the Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill com- 
pany, for the trains upon their road, which is already completed to 
Bristol on the west and Willimantic (the junction of the New 
London and Palmer Railroad) on the east. 

The compact part of the city of Hartford, built mostly upon the 
main street, which extends from north to south, about sixty rods 
from Connecticut River, is more than a mile in leno-th. The 
ground rises gradually from the river, and on the west becomes 



38 NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. 

considerably elevated. On many of the streets there are pleasant 
locations, and handsome dwellings. Little Kiver furnishes some 
considerable water-power. Schooners, and other vessels of light 
draught, come up the Connecticut River as far as Hartford ; and, 
during the summer, steamboats connect the city with New York. 
Above Hartford, flat-bottomed boats can navigate the river for two 
hundred miles. Formerly, great numbers of these boats passed up 
and down the stream, though the completion of the railroad has 
sadly thinned them off. Indeed, the boating business may be said 
to have entirely ceased. 

Among the public buildings and institutions at Hartford, which 
we notice, is the State House, a spacious and handsome edifice. It 
stands upon the public square, fronting Main street, surrounded by 
an iron railing, and ornamented with trees. The Legislature holds 
its sessions here, meeting at Hartford and New Haven on alternate 
years — the odd years at Hartford. The City Hall is a large and 
commodious building, fronting on Market street. Trinity College 
has an elevated and commanding position in the west part of the 
city. It was founded in 1824. There are two large edifices, and 
a library connected with the institution of seven thousand volumes. 
The American Asylum for the Instruction of the Deaf and Dumb 
was the first establishment of the kind in the United States. It 
was opened in 1817. It has spacious buildings upon a hill west of 
the city, with several acres of land attached. The main building can 
be seen on the west, immediately after leaving Hartford. The Re- 
treat for the Insane is on a commanding eminence, a mile and a 
quarter south of the State House; opened in 1824. The building 
is of stone, covered with cement. 

The famous "Charter Oak" stands in Charter street, at the 
south part of Main street. The cavity where the charter was con- 
cealed has closed up long since, and the venerable tree bids fair to 
outlive the present century. 

Windsor, one hundred and eighteen miles, was the first town in 
Connecticut m which an English settlement was made. The first 



NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. 39 

house erected was at the mouth of Farmington River, in 1633. 
Farmington River passes through the town falling into the Connect- 
icut half a mile east of the station. 




View at Windsor Locks. 

Three miles beyond Windsor the tra\eller will see the Connecti- 
cut River upon the left. The soil of the meadows, at this point, is 
rather light and sandy, caused partly by the overflowing of the 
stream at high water. As we ascend, however, the bottom lands 
are equal to any in the New England States. 

Windsor Locks, one hundred and twenty-three miles and a 
half. This is a small village, near the outlet of the Enfield Falls 
Canal. Enfield Falls, so called, are about six miles in extent. 
There is a gradual falling of the river for this whole distance, the 
fall at no time amounting to a cascade ; and, the bottom, being 
rocky and the current strong at low water, it was found difficult to 
ascend and descend in boats with safety. A canal was accordingly 
constructed along the west bank of the river, beginning six miles 
above the locks. A fall of about ten or twelve feet is thus created 
at the lower end of the canal, which is now improved ; a paper-mill, 
saw-mill, and other manufactories being built here. A set of locks 
enables loaded boats to fall to the surface of the river at the outlet 
of the canal. 

The cars now wind alone the banks of the canal for some distance, 



40 NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. 

and then cross the Connecticut upon a splendidly-built bridge, a 
quarter of a mile in length, resting upon a series of stone piers, and 
high above the water. The view from this bridge, up and down 
the stream, is sublime, and rarely equalled. A few years ago, 
during a windy tempestuous night, the western end of this bridge 
was blown away, and was impassable for some time afterwards. 
The vigilance of the overseer of this structure only prevented a 
night train from running off into the river. Since then, besides 
being strengthened at various points, a strong guard has been 
erected the whole length of the bridge upon both sides of the track, 
which renders the passage perfectly secure. 

Warehouse Point, one hundred and twenty-five miles. This 
station is at the east end of the bridge just noticed, one mile north 
of a large village of the same name, in the town of East Windsor. 
This is the head of sloop navigation in the Connecticut River. 




View at Warehouse Point. 

Thompsonville, one hundred and twenty-nine miles. This 
village is in the town of Enfield. It is a place of considerable im- 
portance in the manufacture of carpetings. 

One mile and a half beyond this station the road crosses the 
state line, dividing Massachusetts from Connecticut. 

Longmeadow, one hundred and thirty-three miles, the first sta- 
tion in Massachusetts upon this road. The town was named from 



%. Willi 




42 NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. 

the extensive meadows here found, upon the banks of the river. 
The inhabitants, generally, are engaged in agricultural pursuits. 
The soil is deep and rich, and at harvest time the appearance of 
the crops on the meadows is enchanting in the highest degree. 




Springfield Station. 

Springfield, one hundred and thirty-six miles and a half, is, in 
all respects, a most important town. Here the railroads from the 
four points of the compass meet under one gigantic roof, covering 
the largest railroad passenger station in the United States. On the 
west, the Western Eailroad extends to Albany, two hundred and 
one miles ; on the east, the same line (with the Worcester, which it 
joins at that place) reaches Boston, ninety-nine miles. This latter 
route, with the New Haven and Hartford roads, now form the only 
land route between New York and Boston, over which the travel is 
immense, especially during the winter months. At Springfield the 
various trains generally arrive at nearly the same hour ; the noise, 
clatter and confusion at such periods surpassing all description. 

The village of Springfield, large enough to become a city, only 
the people won't have it so, is beautifully situated upon the east 
bank of the Connecticut River ; the main street, which is over three 



NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. 43 



miles in length, running parallel with it. East of this, the land 
rises with a gradual slope ; on which, overlooking the town and 
river, are many handsome dwellings. The United States Armory 
stands on this high ground, half a mile from the main street. 
The buildings are of brick, neatly arranged around a square. 
From the cupola of one of them there is a delightful view of the 
surrounding country. 

Travellers should, by all means, visit this place ; even a delay 
of one or two days at this charming village will not be lost. 

Springfield, from time immemorial, has been celebrated for its 
fine hotels. No country village in America can compare with this 
one in that respect. This may sound extravagant^ nevertheless it 
is true. As the cars stop here a sufficient length of time to allow 
the passengers to dine, just step into the Massasoit House, (seen 
near the station in the cut,) incomparably the best hotel in New 
England, out of Boston, and take dinner, even if you do not pro- 
pose a longer stop at Springfield. Or, if you prefer stopping nearer 
the centre of the village, take a coach to Warriner's Union House, 
about half a mile south of the station. If the verdict is not unani- 
mous as to the aforesaid "opinion," we will voluntarily surrender 
all claims to be considered a judge in such matters hereafter. 




Warriner's Usios Hotel. 



44 CONNECTICUT EIVER RAILROAD. 



CONNECTICUT RIVER RAILROAD. 

This road, fifty miles in length, begins at Springfield, and fol- 
lows along the Connecticut valley to South Vernon, where it joins 
the Vermont and Massachusetts road. It was opened to North- 
ampton in 1845, and to Grreenfield in 1846. The course of the 
road is very direct, and the grades easy, there being no inclination 
over thirty-two feet per mile. The cost of the whole road and 
equipment has been $1,801,592. 

Cabot Junction, one hundred and thirty-nine miles and three 
quarters. From this point a branch has been constructed to Cabot- 
ville and Chicopee, a distance of two miles. Both are manufac- 
turing villages, and both are upon the Chicopee River. Cabot- 
ville, the larger of the two, is but a short distance from the junction. 
Here, besides several cotton-mills, are the sword, cannon, and cut- 
lery works of the Ames Company. This is the only place in the 
country where any considerable business is carried on in the man- 
ufacture of swords ; the whole process, from the forging of the 
blade to the most exquisite finish, being done within the establish- 
ment. 

Chicopee Falls, two miles further up the stream, has several 
important manufactories of cotton, paper, pistols, iron castings, 
&c. &c. 

WiLLiMANSETT, One hundred and forty-three miles. This is a 
small village in the northern part of Springfield. Here the cars 
cross the Connecticut upon a covered bridge ; and a short distance 
beyond is 

HoLYOKE, one hundred and forty-four miles. This is now one of 
the largest and most prosperous places in the old Bay State. It 
has sprung up as if by magic. In 1846 it was a small parish in 
West Springfield, called Ireland. Now the traveller will see 



CONNECTICUT RIVER RAILROAD. 45 

splendid blocks of brick buildings, large factories, and every indiea 
tion of a first-class town around him. The station is near the 
centre of the village, a small hill standing between it and the river. 
A few years since, a company commenced building a dam upoL. 
the Connecticut, at this place, with a view to improve the immense 
water-power here. After many months' labor, it was completed. 
A day was appointed to fill it. Thousands flocked to witness the 
operations from all quarters. The gates were closed, and the 
immense basin above gradually filled up. But ere long the great 
weight resting against the dam began to settle its centre down 
stream, and fears were entertained that the structure could not 
stand. These fears proved well grounded. When within three or 
four feet of the top, the whole structure gave way, with a terrible 
crash, and was swept down the stream by the imprisoned waters. 
Not a vestige of it remained. Luckily, many hundreds of people, 
who had for some time previous been standing upon the dam, were 
warned away before the accident, so that no lives were lost. 

Not discouraged by this sad mishap, the company at once went 
on with a second structure, which now stands, creating, probably, 
more water-power than can be found at any other place in the 
state. 

The cars, after leaving the Holyoke station, pass within a few 
rods of this splendid structure, over which falls a smooth sheet of 
water the whole river's breadth. For some distance above this 
place the track is laid directly upon the river's brink, being the 
worst portion of the road to build. The hills, for several miles, 
shut down close to the water, and considerable rock-cutting was 
necessary to save many objectionable curves. The prospect, as 
you pass along, is highly interesting. 

Smith's Ferry, one hundred and forty-nine miles. At this sta- 
tion there is no village. The cars stop here to leave passengers 
for South Hadley, on the east side of the river. 

Leaving this place, the face of the country becomes more level. 
You seem to have passed between two mountains into a vast plain 



CONNECTICUT RIVER RAILROAD. 



47 



On your right, Mount Holyoke lifts its lofty summit ; on your left 
is Mount Tom, close to the line. Just above, you cross what is 
now an island, partly surrounded by a cove of stagnant water. 
This cove was once the bed of the Connecticut River, During a 
freshet, several years ago, the water broke over the neck of a 
peninsula formed here by a bend in the stream, and made a new 
channel, saving a circuit for boats navigating the river of over two 
miles. 




FINE view of the outlines of Mount Hol- 
yoke and Mount Tom is had by looking 
south from near the Northampton station. 
One would hardly judge, from the ap- 
pearance of these hills, that the broad 
Connecticut was quietly flowing between them. 

Northampton, one hundred and fifty-three miles, is delightfully 
situated up a gentle elevation, about a mile from the river. It is 
surrounded upon all sides with large tracts of fertile meadows, and, 
during the summer season, presents one of the richest prospects to 
be found in New England. Across the river, there is another large 



I 



/ 



48 CONNECTICUT RIVER RAILROAD. 

tract, enclosed by hills, upon which stand the rich and thriving 
towns of Hadley and Amherst. On the south-east the noble Mount 
Holyoke rises boldly to view. Upon the summit of this elevation, 
overlooking the whole valley of the Connecticut for miles, north 
and south, the lover of nature will get a prospect not often found. 
The height of the mountain is about 1200 feet. 

Leaving Northampton, the line makes its greatest detour from 
the river, which is not seen again for twenty miles. At the next 
station it is four miles distant. 

Hatfield, one hundred and fifty-eight miles. The station here is 
three miles from the village, which lies upon the river. The sur- 
face of this town is level, and its meadows exceedingly rich and 
extensive. Large quantities of broom-corn are grown in the town. 
Haydensville, situated in the south-western part, is a thriving vil- 
lage, and has some manufactories. 

From Hatfield to South Deerfield, a distance of nearly seven 
miles, the line is perfectly straight. From the rear of the cars, 
looking directly back, the summit of Mount Tom appears in the dis- 
tance, standino; like a huo;e barrier across the road. 

Whately, one hundred and sixty-two and a half miles, another 
town noted for its great abundance of broom-corn. There are two 
principal villages in the town. East and West Whately, standing 
one upon each side, and about equi-distant from the station. Two 
miles north of the west village is Mount Esher, a bluflf rising 
abruptly nearly a thousand feet. From the summit of this hill a 
fine view of the surrounding country is to be obtained. 

South Deerfield, one hundred and sixty-five miles, situated at 
the southern boundary of Deerfield, and 

Deerfield, one hundred and sixty-nine miles. This is one of 
the oldest towns in the state, having been settled in 1 670. Both 
villages are beautifully situated, the streets being shaded by a 
great number of stately elms. On the right, as you pass along, 
rises first Sugar-loaf, a conical peak of red sandstone, and then 
Deerfield mountain. A huge gulf lies between them. 



CONNECTICUT RIVER RAILROAD. 49 

Deerfield is a place of great interest to Americans. In this 
vicinity were fought many sanguinary battles between the whites and 
the Indians. At Bloody Brook, near the South Deerfield station, 
is a monument erected to the memory of Capt. Thomas Latbrop 
and eighty-four men under his command, who were butchered by 
the savages, in 1675. They were conveying stores to Hatfield, 
and had stopped to gather grapes. A band of seven hundred 
Indians attacked them, seized their arms, which had been impru- 
dently left, and then butchered nearly the whole of Capt. Lothrop's 
company. 

Deerfield was burnt by the Indians in 1704. During the skir- 
mish, the house of Capt. John Shelden was attacked, and a hole 
was cut in the door by the savages. Within a few years, this 
venerable old relic of antiquity has been torn down, and its place is 
now filled by a new dwelling-house. Why not sell the monument 
at Bloody Brook, and with its materials help to construct some 
neighbor's cellar-wall ? It certainly has no beauty, aside from the 
fact that it marks a spot sacred in the memory of every American 
breast. We well remember the anxiety manifested by stage-pas- 
sengers, when passing Deerfield, many years ago, to see the old 
house. It was worth while to stop and walk around this remnant 
of antiquity. But modern improvements have swept it away, and 
with it has departed the glory of old Deerfield. 

Two miles beyond this station, the cars pass the mouth of Deer- 
field River, upon a high bridge. At its northern extremity, the 
Vermont and Massachusetts Railroad approaches through a gorge 
in the hills, and hence to Greenfield is close to the line, and runs 
parallel with it. The distance to Boston from this point is about 
one hundred and six miles. 

Greenfield, one hundred and seventy-two miles. This is a 
beautiful village, situated upon an elevated plain on the margin of 
Green River, and surrounded by a fine intervale. The view of the 
place from the south, as it is approached, is surpassingly fine. 

Most of the villages upon the banks of the Connecticut are 



50 



CONNECTICUT RIVER RAILROAD. 



celebrated for their neatness and rural simplicity. There in 
nothing like the grandeur of the Hudson river prospect aboul 
them. There are very few costly, or rich, or extensive villas, 
such as we may frequently see upon the borders of that stream. 
Yet there is a gratifying appearance about them all, which striken 
the eye of the traveller with admiration and delight. 

Leaving this station, the cars pass under one of the main streets, 
and commence a considerable rise, making likewise another detour 
from the river. 

Bernardston, one hundred and seventy-nine miles. This is a 
large town, exclusively devoted to agriculture. The village lies 
upon Fall River, which unites with the Connecticut near Green- 
field. 

The line now passes over an uneven country, to 




SorxH Verson Junction. 



South Vernon, one hundred and eighty-six miles, the first 
town in Vermont, the termination of the Connecticut River Rail- 
road, and the cars pass to the 



VERMONT AND MASSACHUSETTS RAILROAD. 51 



VERMONT AND MASSACHUSETTS 
RAILROAD. 

This road begins at Fitchburg, Mass., and extends to Brattle- 
boro', Vt., ten miles from the junction at South Vernon. It also 
has a branch from Grout's Corner to Greenfield. At South Vernon 
the Ashuelot Railroad, extending to Keene, twenty-three miles, 
branches off, crossing the Connecticut, and following up the valley 
of the Ashuelot River the whole distance. This road is operated 
by the Connecticut River Company. 

Vernon, one hundred and ninety-one miles. The surface of 
this town is very uneven and hilly. In the west part, large quan- 
tities of roofing-slate are wrought. The road, for a long distance 
through the village, passes on high ground, affording many fine 
views of the river below. 

Brattleboro', one hundred and ninety-six miles. This is one 
of the most thriving towns in Vermont, noted for its invigorating 
air, pure water, and fine mountain scenery. Just east of the 
station, across the river, Chesterfield Mountain rises abruptly to the 
height of nearly a thousand feet. 

The main village stands a few rods west of the station, placed 
upon an elevated plain, overlooking the river. AVhetstone Brook 
furnishes some water-power near its junction with the Connecticut. 
Here the cars enter upon the 



VERMONT VALLEY RAILROAD, 

Extending from Brattleboro' to Bellows' Falls, a distance of 
twenty-four miles. This road is constructed along the banks of the 
Connecticut River, in no place being half a mile distant from it, 



52 VERMONT VALLEY RAILROAD. 

and for the greater portion of the distance within a few rods of the 
water. Hence the river views are very frequent and very beauti- 
ful. The water is hemmed in on both sides by abrupt hills, often 
shutting in close to the shore. During the summer season, when 
these are clothed with green, the ride over this road is a perfect 
treat, and never to be forgotten. 

Some portions of the valley road were very difficult to build, in 
consequence of the rugged nature of the country. Yet it was com- 
pleted in less than two years ; and is one of the best constructed, 
best managed, and important roads in the Northern States. 

DuMMERSTON, two hundred and one miles, was one of the 
earliest settled places in Vermont. Fort Dummer, which was in 
Brattleboro', was founded in 1625. This place was much troubled 
by the Indians for many years after its settlement. 

The town is hilly ; watered on the north by West River. 
Several smaller streams fall into the Connecticut, along its eastern 
boundary. 

Putney, two hundred and five miles, is the next station. The 
village is quite pleasantly situated, surrounded on all sides by pre- 
cipitous hills. Sacket's Brook, which falls some eighty feet, fur- 
nishes considerable water-power. 

The traveller will notice the meadows and intervales at the 
mouths of the small streams, as the cars pass along. Many of them 
are overflowed by the spring and fall freshets. At such times, 
when these lowlands are covered with water, they appear like large 
lakes, with numerous islands here and there. Three miles above 
this station are the Great Putney Meadows, more than two miles 
in leno;th, and half a mile across. Here the line is the o-reatest dis- 
tance from the river. 

Westminster, two hundred and fifteen miles. This village 
stands upon a plain half a mile south-west of the station. Across 
the river, about half a mile, is Walpole station, on the Cheshire 
Railroad. Beyond, upon an elevated plain, is the village of 



VERMONT VALLEY RAILROAD. 53 

Walpole, neatly laid out, and prettily built. Four miles further, 
and we are at 

Bellows' Falls, two hundred and twenty miles. Every trav- 
eller should stop at this romantic village at least one day. The 
village is compactly built, standing upon the west bank of the 
river, and surrounded on all sides by abrupt hills. No place upon 
this route possesses so many natural attractions as Bellows' Falls. 

The Falls are a series of rapids in the Connecticut, extending 
about a mile along the base of a high and precipitous hill, known 
as Fall Mountain^ which skirts the river on the New Hamp- 
shire side. Within this distance the river falls about fifty feet, 
though in no place is the descent perpendicular to any considerable 
extent. A canal was constructed round these falls, on the Ver- 
mont side, with locks, about the beginning of the present century, 
at an expense of fifty thousand dollars, for the passage of boats and 
rafts of timber, but the great river line of railroads now completed 
has nearly ruined this property. Nevertheless, the water-power 
belonging to the company is daily increasing in value ; and a little 
liberality on tliC part of the owners would tend to make this one of 
the most important manufacturing places in New England. 

At the bridge which crosses the river at this village, the visiter 
can stand directly over the boiling flood, viewed from whence, the 
whole scene is wild and exciting in the extreme. The river is here 
compressed into a narrow, rocky pass, at low water, so that it 
appears almost as though you could leap it. The water, which is 
at all times one dense mass of foam, rushes through this chasm 
with such velocity, that, in striking the rocks below, the spray is 
forced back upon it for a considerable distance. In the spring, 
when the high water brings down the ice from the river above, the 
view from this bridge is grand and terrific. At such times the 
water is driven over the eastern channel also, where there is a per- 
pandicular fall of twenty feet, very fine. This channel is dry at 
low water. The middle pier of the bridge stands upon a ledge of 
rocks between the two. 



54 



VERMONT VALLEY RAILROAD. 



Bellows' Falls was formerly frequented by the Indians, for the 
purpose of salmon fishing. Before any dams were constructed 
below this point in the river, salmon were caught here in great 
numbers. They rarely ascended above these falls. Just below 
the bridge, on the west side of the river, is a large flat rock, upon 
which a large number of rude faces are to be seen, having been 
cut by the Indians, jjerhaps centuries ago. They can be reached 
without difficulty, and are well worth notice. 

The stranger who wishes to carry away a distinct impression of 
this vicinity should not fail to ascend Fall Mountain, across the 
river. From the summit of this elevation there is a most charm- 
ing prospect. Ladies can reach the summit, even on foot, without 
fatigue. No guide is needed, as there is a good path the whole 
distance. 




Island House, Bellows' Falls. 



The Island House, recently erected in this village for the 
accommodation of the travelling public, is a fine edifice, built with 
all the modern conveniences, and with especial reference to the 



56 THE SULLIVAN KAILROAD. 



comfort of strangers. The house stands upon the highest point of 
the island, within a few rods of the station, overlooking the falls, 
the river, and the village. 

Four railroads terminate at Bellows' Falls : the Cheshire, form- 
ing a part of the line to Boston ; the Rutland, extending to Bur- 
linf^ton; the Vermont Valley Boad from Brattleboro', and the 
Sullivan, which is a part of the Connecticut Biver line, running to 
Windsor. The station is upon the island, near the falls. Besides 
the hio-hway bridge, there are two railroad, bridges across the 
river at this place, both beautiful structures, the whole being 
within a quarter of a mile of each other. 



THE SULLIVAN KAILROAD 

Extends from Bellows' Falls to "Windsor, Vermont, and, with 
the exception of a short distance at the latter place, lies wholly in 
the state of New Hampshire. This road is twenty-five miles in 
length, is well built, and has a very even grade, running, for the 
most part, along a level country upon the east bank of the Connect- 
icut. At Windsor village, it crosses the river, and connects with 
the Vermont Central Boad. 

South Charlestown, two hundred and twenty-four miles, a 
small village in the south part of Charlestown. The Butland road 
follows the Connecticut to this point, upon the west side. The 
traveller will now notice a ravine up which that road follows the 
course of Williams' Biver. 

Charlestown, two hundred and twenty-eight miles. This is a 
pretty village, standing upon a plain, some distance from the river. 
The main street is very broad and straight, and lined with fine 
shade trees. A bridge connects this place with Springfield, Ver- 
mont. 



THE SULLIVAN RAILROAD. 



57 



NoKTU Charlestown, two hundred and thirty-three miles. 
Here is another small village, situated upon a small stream, which 
affords a little water power. 

Claremont, two hundred and thirty-seven miles and a half. 
This station is about two miles from the large and flourishing vil- 
lage of the same name. It stands upon Sugar River, which falls 
over one hundred feet within a distance of one mile, affording an 
immense water power, which is considerably improved. There are 
several cotton and woollen mills here, besides paper mills, saw 
mills, tanneries and furnaces. Iron and limestone are found in 
this town. A stage runs regularly to the village from every upward 
and downward train. 




1 1 ^""-^ 

Sugar River Bridge. 



Soon after leaving Claremont, the line crosses over Sugar River, 
upon a bridge one hundred feet above the water. Ascutney Moun- 
tain soon appears upon the west. This mountain is a detached peak, 
rising about 3250 feet, just south of Windsor village, from whence 
it may be ascended. The cars now cross the Connecticut upon a 



58 THE SULLIVAN RAILROAD. 

well built bridge, which brings you to the termination of the Sul- 
livan Railroad, at 




Windsor Village and Ascctney Mountain. 

Windsor, two hundred and forty-five and a half miles. This is 
the shire town of Windsor county. The village is a large and 
handsome one, situated at the base of Ascutney Mountain, on the 
north-east side. Mill River, which falls into the Connecticut, a 
short distance below the village, affords some water power for light 
machinery. Windsor has three churches, a court-house, &:c. The 
Vermont State Prison is situated at Windsor. 

The Windsor House, a large and elegant hotel, stands directly 
in the centre of the village. It is kept by Mr. J. H. Simonds. 
Travellers stopping over at Windsor will find every desirable 
attention at this hotel. 



THE VERMONT CENTRAL RAILROAD. 



59 



THE VERMONT CENTRAL RAILROAD 

Commences at Windsor, and follows the west bank of the Con- 
necticut to White River Junction. Here it strikes up White 
River, crosses the Green Mountains at Northfield, and follows 
down the Onion River to Burlington. Passengers over the Con- 
necticut River route only pass over the road as far as White River 
Junction. 

Hartland, two hundred and fifty miles. The station here is at 
some distance from the village. The line for the whole distance 
to White River follows the river banks very closely^ rarely being 
out of sight of it. 

North Hartland, two hundred and fifty-four miles. Here ia 
a small village, the last station before reaching 



.<*- .^,t *i 





'^^- 



White River Junction. 



White River Junction, two hundred and sixty-one miles. 
This village is opposite West Lebanon, N. H., having been built 



60 CONNECTICUT AND PASSUMPSIC RIVERS RAILROAD. 

up since the completion of the several railroads centring here. A 
large hotel has recently been erected for the accommodation of 
passengers who stop here to dine. 

Four lines of railroad connect at this station, viz., the Northern, 
from the east ; the Passumpsic from the north ; the Central from 
the west, and the Central from the south. The business incident 
upon this connection must eventually make this an important 
place. Here the traveller enters upon the 



CONNECTICUT AND PASSUMPSIC 
RIVEES RAILROAD. 

This road forms that part of the ''Valley Railroad Line" which 
lies north of White River Junction. It is wholly within the 
State of Vermont — the Connecticut River forming the boundary 
between Vermont and New Hampshire. Its course is nearly due 
north, following the valley of the Connecticut and Passumpsic 
Rivers, and it is now completed as far as St. Johnsbury, sixty 
miles from White River Junction. Its ultimate destination is the 
Canadian line, connecting with the railway avenues to Montreal 
and Quebec. 

At the village of Wells River, forty miles north of White River 
Junction, it will receive the White Mountains Railroad, now in 
course of construction. Regular lines of coaches from this railroad, 
at St. Johnsbury and Wells River, leave for the White Mountains 
and for Franconia, during the summer season, for pleasure travel. 

The Passumpsic Railroad passes some fifteen business villages, 
situated on both sides of the river, between White River Junction 
and St. Johnsbury, and runs much of the way through the broad 
alluvial meadows, which, during the spring freshets, are overflowed 
by the waters of Connecticut River, resembling an extended 
lake. 



CONNECTICUT AND PASSDMPSIC RIVERS RAILROAD. 61 

The scenery for the entire length of the road is surpassingly 
fine ; similar to what we see in descending Lake Charaplain from 
Ticonderoga to Burlington. This likeness is not surprising, since, 
according to geologists, the Connecticut intervales were once a chain 
of lakes. Several bluffs resemble the sites of castles on the Rhine, 
where it is most castellated, as between Mayence and Bonn. As 
we go up this road, the view on the left is far the most hidden 
because the road huo-s the base of hills, while that on the right is 
obstructed by only four bridges, and seldom cut off even for a 
moment by woods, or cuttings, or hills. 

Leaving the White River Junction, where this road connects 
with the Northern, N. H., and the Vermont Central roads, we 
cross White River, the largest stream in eastern Vermont. We 
soon see a dam over the Connecticut, and traces of the canal 
which was more than forty years ago dug on its opposite shore 
round rapids that obstructed navigation. Rafts of lumber are 
usually waiting to pass through the locks. Yet the river's occupa- 
tion, as to transporting manufactured lumber, will soon be gone. 
Railroad competition has already lowered the canal tolls one half. 
Grazing high ledges on the left, and crossing Blood Brook, — so 
named from an Indian massacre on its banks, — we arrive at 

Norwich and Hanover, two hundred sixty-five and a half miles. 
Norwich and Hanover, like all the villages on this route, save 
two, stand on table land, elevated about two hundred feet above 
the river ; they reach about half a mile from its bank. Norwich 
University, situated on the beautiful plain, girdled with maple- 
crested hills, was incorporated in 1834. Its students, who are 
called cadets, and the current year number sixty, dress in uniform 
and drill an hour daily. In the vicinity is the tomb of a former 
President, Colonel Ransom, who fell at the storming of Chepul- 
tepec. There is also here a school for young ladies. In the hill 
burial ground is the grave of Zerah Colburn, the precocious 
mathematical genius. 

Hanover, with a population of 2,352, is chiefly known as the 
6 



62 CONNECTICUT AND PASSUMPSIC RIVERS RAILROAD. 

seat of Dartmouth College, chartered in 1769, and surpassed in 
age by only seven institutions in the United States. Its students 
the present year are 273, of whom 52 attend medical lectures. 
The corps of instruction are a President (Rev. Dr. Lord) and 
fifteen Professors. The founder of the institution, that was at first 
intended chiefly for educating Indians, was Rev. Dr. Wheelock. 
Among the 3,000 alumni are Choate and Webster. The libraries 
amount to 22,475 volumes, and each of the six buildings is worth 
looking at. A little east rises a barren ridge, bristling with 
whitish rocks, and nicknamed the President's Garden. Near it 
stands a nondescript octagonal store-house, an architectural whim 
of one of the professors. Dartmouth is just now rejoicing in a 
bequest of $50,000, from the late Abiel Chandler, Esq., an old 
bachelor. 

Leaving Norwich, and passing several bush-fringed islands, we 
turn one of the sharpest curves in all this road, (1,146 feet,) and 
open upon a noble river-reach, flashing like a mammoth mirror. 
The highlands, that, where we set out, shut down to the shore, 
gradually recede right and left now. 

Ompompanoosuc Station, two hundred and seventy-one miles 
This station takes its name from the river we have just crossed. 
This Indian name means abounding in onions, and was doubtless 
given to the stream by the aborigines from those rank-scented 
esculents flourishing along its banks. The depot is larger than we 
expect where there is no village, partly because, on the arrival of 
the first up train, a stage leaves this station for Union Village, (on 
the line between Norwich and Thetford,) as well as for Strafford, 
but chiefly because about 5,000 tons of copperas, from the richest 
mine in the world, are here annually freighted for Boston. This 
mine, lying seven miles up the valley that runs among the hills on 
our left, is worth going to see, for other reasons besides its being 
the only one in our Union which is now worked. While digging 
for the foundation of this depot the skeleton of an Indian was dis- 



CONNECTICUT AND PASSUMPSIC RIVERS RAILROAD. 63 

covered ; and in former years other aboriginal relics had been 
exhumed in the vicinity. 

When we have glanced up several river vistas between avenues 
of trees, we espy Lyme village on our right and back from the 
river. The white church tower, a wood in the background, and 
southward a hill side checkered with trees, are the most noteworthy 
objects. 

TiiETFORD AND Lyme, two hundred and seventy-five miles and a 
half. The depot is near a covered bridge, for a road over the Connect- 
icut, which leads to the village of Lyme, one and a half miles distant. 
Thetford Hill boasts an Academy that has reached a high pitch of 
popularity, and a magnificent prospect stretching down the Con- 
necticut to Mount Ascutney, near Windsor. Here Dr. Burton, 
one of the most original of Vermont theologians, was pastor for 
more than half a century. 

North Thetford, two hundred and seventy-eight miles, is near 
a bridge over the Connecticut, as well as a quarry of building stone 
and of roofing slate. As we proceed, Mount Cuba, so called, 
bounds our view on the right. It is still a haunt for bears, and at 
least one man was in danger from a bear there in 1850. It is said 
to stand where four towns meet, namely, Lyme, Orford, Wentworth 
and Dorchester. The second peak to the left of Cuba, a conical 
half wooded hill, is called Sunday Mountain. Next, we survey 
the charming Orford intervals, and then the village of Orford 
drawn out along The Ridge, — a natural terrace a mile long, 
almost every house on which looks forth like a villa bosomed high 
in tufted trees. 

Fairlee and Orford, two hundred and eighty-three miles, is 
near Fairlee meeting-house, Orford village, and a cliff anciently 
called Coney Mountain, but now Association Bock, having been so 
named by several ministers of the Orange Association, who ascended 
it in company. It is crescent-shaped, and at first view not to be 
scaled in front, yet, on scrutinizing it, we shall see in its centre a 
stairway half hidden in bushes, climbing among which, wg can 



01 CONNECTICUT AND PASSUMPSIC RIVEllS RAILROAD. 

safely reach the grove on the summit. Here we can roll rocks 
down the face of the precipice, or lie in the shade and feast our 
eyes on a better view than is often to be earned by so little 
walking. 

Starting again, we glide beneath the brow of Association Kock, 
and, passing the Orford soap-stone quarry, see before us, on the left, 
Sawyer's Mountain, and on the right an overlapping New Hamp- 
shire highland, which withdraw one from another, like folding 
doors, as we approach. After going through this natural gateway, 
a grand river avenue breaks upon us, and then Piermont village 
appears, with its gray church in the distance on the right. 

Near this point the Moosehilloch "upheaves its huge bare back 
emergent," and for nearly twenty miles remains the grandest 
object of attention. This peak is the highest in New Hampshire 
out of the White Mountain range, and commands in some respects a 
better prospect than even Mount Washington. Its elevation is 
4,636 feet. A land-slide stripes its side with red in summer, and 
in winter is styled " The church in the mountain^^'' as at that 
season it resembles the profile of a white church drawn on the back 
side of the mountain. This peak may be easily ascended by an 
excursion from Newbury. 

Bradford, two hundred and eighty-nine miles. Here still sur- 
vives the first maker of geological globes in America, now an octo- 
genarian. The prospects are such, that, if the natives wish to see 
good scenery, they will stay at home. 

Almost as soon as we leave this village, Haverhill Corner comes 
in view. It has four spires and one fine brick block. Behind it 
rise the gray Sugar Loaf, and Black Hill. In the foreground 
begin those broad meadows, which the Connecticut overflows so often 
and so extensively as to merit the name of the Nile of New England. 

Traversing the lower intervale, we see a continuous line of farm- 
houses along the edge of the first land-table that rises on our left. 
The acclivity from the river to Haverhill is rent with gorges, and 
the cemetery north of that village is built round a massive and 



CONNECTICUT AND PASSUMPSIO RIVEKS RAILROAD. 65 

antique powder-house. The meanders or links of the river, as it 
sweeps between double lines of trees, are picturesque. 

Newbury, two hundred and ninety-seven miles. An omnibus 
leaves for Haverhill Corner, on the arrival of the first train up. 
Near the station-house, to the north-east, are the Sulphur Springs. 
The waters resemble those of Harrowgate, in England, and have 
long enjoyed great local fame as a specific for all cutaneous 
affections. The visitors are year by year more numerous, but are 
well accommodated in the spacious hotels, and the well-ordered 
bathing establishment. There is more intervale, or what the Ger- 
mans call Golden Meadoiu, in this town than in any other in the 
state. The Grreat Oxbow, containing almost five hundred acres, 
spreads its lake-like expanse just north of the village. On this 
queen of meadows the Indians had settlements, relics of which 
have been often found. Here also was the site of the first white 
settlement north of Charlestown, and this point remained our 
northern frontier throughout the revolution. 

Emerging from the first wood after leaving Newbury, we see on 
the right a brick house, which stands on the great Oxbow, — the 
best image of a western prairie, which New England affords. In 
addition to Owl's Head, Sugar Loaf, and Moosehillock, — an array 
magnificently stern, — we now behold the Franconia range, most of 
the year either cloud-capped or white with snow. Nothing but 
this Franconia chain now hides from our eyes the White Moun- 
tains. At Ingall's Hill is the heaviest rock cuttinoj on this road, 
where stone enough was blasted out to build eight such monuments 
as that on Bunker Hill, though all of them were solid. 

Wells River, three hundred and one miles. This is one of 
the prettiest villages upon the line, and a great depot for lumber. 
Stages leave this place daily for Franconia and the White 
Mountains. 

The village is hemmed in by hills, so that it cannot be seen to 
advantage from the cars. As we cross the mouth of Wells River 



66 CONNECTICUT AND PASSUMPSIC FvIVERS RAILROAD. 

on a high embankment, we have a transient view of the church, 
hotels, bank, &c. 

Just above this village the line passes the Hog's Bach, a hill 
cut through for the railroad. A little beyond, the Connecticut 
River is compressed by the encroaching hills into a width of about 
one hundred feet. 

Ryegate, three hundred and six miles. This town was a Scotch 
colony, planted just before our revolution. Its scenery has points 
of resemblance to the Scotch hio-hlands. The Scotchmen long 
retained many national peculiarities, but are now in the main 
Yankeefied. 

McIndoe's Falls, three hundred and ten miles. It is just 
beyond the bridge, which, according to tradition, the first riverman 
crossed scot-free, spite of the toll-gate keeper, since he evaded the 
law by riding on the back of his comrade. This depot, as well as 
all the others, until we reach St. Johnsbury, is in the town of 
Barnet. Passing Baird's Falls, we reach 

Barnet Station, three hundred and thirteen miles. The 
village is high above the station, and has two woollen factories. The 
water which propels their machinery falls one hundred and eight 
feet, in sight of the depot. Stages leave this station, on the arrival 
of the first train of cars, for Lancaster and Littleton, and also for 
Peacham. A mile or two further up, we go through a rock cut 
forty feet deep, and, by a wild, romantic gorge, leave the Connecti- 
cut for the Passumpsic. At the mouth of the Passumpsic is an 
archipelago of twenty-one islands, some of which are woody, others 
rocky, and one, namely. Round Island, is believed by many to be 
the spot where, in the French war, Rogers rallied his half starved 
rangers, on their return from exterminating a village of the St. 
Francis Indians. Although the railroad quits the Connecticut, it 
keeps its original northerly course, while the Connecticut comes 
down from the east. 

In ascending the Passumpsic, that winds like an anaconda 
through the meadows, we cross it eight times. 



CONNECTICUT AND PASSUMPSIC RIVERS RAILROAD. 



67 



McLeran's Falls, three hundred and fifteen miles. It stands 
among hills that seem to have been rent asunder by some convul 
sion of nature. Gliding over several small meadows, we arrive at 

Passumpsic, three hundred and nineteen miles. The name is 
Indian, and means rich in medicine. Here is a fall of twenty-four 
feet, and an incipient viDage. 




St. Johxsbury Station. 



St. Johnsbury, three hundred and twenty-two miles from New 
York, is the present terminus of the line. The village is delight- 
fully situated, and much diversified, the central street extending 
nearly a mile in length, upon an elevated plain, with several inter- 
secting and parallel streets, embracing the manufacturing establish- 
ments upon the Passumpsic and Sleeper's Rivers, on the east and 
west of the plain. 

Here are two elegant churches, neat Grrecian structures, nearly 
new ; an academy, bank, printing-office, several spacious stores, 
hotels, and various mechanics' shops. 

Near "the Plain," on Sleeper's River, is the extensive 



68 



ST. JOHNSBURY. 



lishment of Messrs. E. & T. Fairbanks & Co., which gives employ- 
ment to about two hundred workmen. 

Here are made every variety and modification of scales which are 
used in the mercantile world, from the ponderous weigh lock scale, 
which registers, with unerring precision, the weight of the largest 
canal boat, down to the small counter scale of the merchant. 

Here are in progress, at the same time, railroad track scales, 
depot scales, coal scales, grain scales, hay scales, warehouse scales, 
and all the variety of platform scales for stores and manufactories, 
which, when completed and subjected to severe tests, are securely 
packed for transportation to every part of the world. The 




JoH^SBURY House, situated in the cen- 
^^ tre of the village, midway between the 
churches, is one of the largest and best 
hotels in the state, and affords a pleas- 
ant home for the traveller. 

The surrounding country aflfords many delightful rides, and from 
several elevated points, near the village, picturesque and extended 
views are obtained, especially at "Pumpkin Hill," about three 
miles distant, where the visitor obtains a distinct and sublime view 
of Mount Washington, Moose Hillock, Mount Lafayette, and the 
whole range of the White Mountains. 

From St. Johnsbury, during the season for pleasure travel, there 



ST. JOHNSBURY. 



69 



are daily lines of stages to the Crawford House, at the Notch of the 
White Mountains, and also to Willoughbj Lake, and extra coaches 
are kept for select parties. From St. Johnsbury the distance i? a 
little over twenty miles to Willoughby Lake, one of the most 
attractive localities in northern New England. 




The White Mocntaixs from Pcmpkin Hill. 



The lake is beautifully situated between two mountains, which 
rise abruptly to the height of two thousand feet on the east side, 
and fourteen hundred feet on the west. 

From the summit of Mount Pisgah, on the east, is spread out 
before the eye a prospect scarcely less extended and enchanting 
than that exhibited to the view of the Hebrew lawgiver from the 
top of ancient Pisgah. It embraces, on the north and north-west. 
Lake Memphremagog, Owl's Head, and the plains of Stanstead, 
reaching far down into Canada. On the east, the entire range of 
the White Mountains, and on the south and south-west, the valley 
of the Passumpsic, and the Green Mountain range. 

The lake abounds with fish, particularly the muscolung, a 



70 



LAKE WILLOUGHBY. 



species of large trout, wliile the numerous streams and ponds in the 
vicinity are filled with the common mountain trout. 

Upon the lake, midway between the mountains, the reverberation 
of sound is magical ; as many as six distinct echoes being returned 
from a bugle played at the same point. 




ERY near the southern extremity of this 
beautiful sheet of water, a new and com- 
modious hotel will be opened by the 
middle of June, and a pleasure-boat con- 
~-^' 2=^-^ structed. A small observatory will be 

erected upon the summit of Mount Pisgah, at the same time, and 
a carriage-road from thence to the hotel, by a circuit of three miles. 
The stage-road between Willoughby Lake and St. Johnsbury is 
good, not hilly, but undulating, affording a specimen of the diversi- 
fied scenery of Vermont. 

The stages from Willoughby Lake to St. Johnsbury will connect, 
daily, with the cars at that place, and with the line of stages thence 
to the White Mountains ; and measures have been taken to secure 
travellers by these lines from imposition. 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 71 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

These hills, the highest land in the United States, with the single 
exception of the Rocky Mountains, lie directly in the centre of 
Coos County, the northern part of New Hampshire. They are 
seven in number, and seem to be only a cluster of mountains, 
rather than a chain. They are surrounded on all sides, at their 
bases, by a dense forest. Of course, the best view of their gigantic 
greatness is had from their summits. Next to this they are seen to 
good advantage from some elevated station at a distance, where the 
outlines of the whole group can be scanned at a glance. The view 
from Pumpkin Hill, near St. Johnsbury, before noticed, is very 
fine. They can be seen, also, from Moose Hillock, and, in fact, 
from almost any elevated summit in their neighborhood. 

Mount "Washington is the highest of the group, the summit being 
elevated 6243 feet above the sea, — nearly a mile and a quarter. 
Then comes Mount Adams, the most northerly peak, 5759 feet ; 
Mount Jefferson, situated between the first two, 5657 feet ; Mount 
Madison, the eastern peak, 5415 feet; Mount Monroe, the first 
•south of Mount Washington, 5349 feet ; Mount Franklin, the next 
south of this, 4850 feet ; and Mount Pleasant, the last and most 
southern of the group, 4715 feet. Thus on the north and south, 
and east sides, it will be seen that Mount Washington is surrounded 
by hills of less height, itself being the culminating point of the 
whole group. 

The ascent to the summits of these mountains, though fatiguing, 
is not dangerous ; and the stranger never regrets his labor. Per- 
haps the greatest difficulty will be to fix upon a time when the 
summits are not enveloped in clouds. There are several points 



72 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

from which the summit of Mount Washington can be reached, at 
either of which guides are to be obtained at all times. 

The Notch House, or Crawford's, kept by Maj. J. L. Gibb, is 
the largest house in the region of the White Mountains. It stands 
at the very entrance of "the Notch," and commands a splendid 
view of this renowned and picturesque gorge, as well as the vast 
panorama of highlands which constitute the White Mountain cluster. 
For the extent, variety, and grandeur of the mountain scenery in 
this vicinity, its location is unrivalled. This house is entirely new, 
and has been constructed and furnished expressly for the accommo- 
dation of the pleasure travel during the summer months. Especial 
attention has been paid to the construction of apartments for families 
and parties. Well-trained horses are kept here for the use of vis- 
itors who wish to ascend Mount Washington, and carriages are 
always in readiness to convey parties to the Willey House, Mount 
Willard, and other places of interest in this romantic neighbor- 
hood. Visitors from New York are ticketed directly through to 
Crawford's. By purchasing through tickets, travellers will avoid 
all fear of imposition at the upper part of the route, the stages 
being run under the direction of the railroad officers. 

The Mount Washington House, or Fahyan^s, is four miles 
further on up the mountain valley. This hotel is two hundred feet 
in length, and two stories high, with ample out-houses adjoining. 

The Lafayette House, in Franconia, near the Franconia 
Notch, so called, is a fine hotel, kept by L. W. Cobleigh, Esq. 
It is situated close to the celebrated " Old Man of the Mountain, ^^ 
and Echo Lake, twenty-six miles from Crawford's. Although at 
some distance from the summit of Mount AVashington, the place is 
much visited, in consequence of its splendid scenery and fine air. 

Mount Lafayette is easily ascended, and the prospect from its sum- 
mit is beautiful. Crossing this mountain, you pass over the east pin- 
nacle of Mount Monroe, and soon find yourself on a plain of some ex- 
tent at the foot of Mount Washington. Here is a fine resting-place, 
on the margin of a beautiful sheet of water, of an oval form, covering 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 73 

three fourths of an acre. Directly before you the phinacle of 
Mount Washington rises with majestic grandeur, elevated about 1500 
feet above the plain, and presenting a variety of colors and forms. 
The view from this point is grand and picturesque. Innumerable 
mountains, lakes, ponds, rivers, towns, and villages meet the eye, 
and in the distance may be seen the waters of the Atlantic stretch- 
ing along the dim horizon. To the north is seen the lofty sum- 
mits of Adams and Jefferson ; and to the east, a little detached 
from the range, stands Mount Madison. During two thirds of the 
year the summits of these mountains are covered with snow and 
ice, giving them a bright and dazzling appearance. 

The following excellent account of the " Ascent of Mount 
Washington," we extract from a description by the Rev. J. S. C. 
Abbot : — 

" After passing the Notch of the White Mountains, the traveller 
enters upon a plain, through which meanders the Ammonoosuc 
River, as it hastens onward to unite its waters with the floods of the 
Connecticut. As you ride along this pleasant road, the valley, 
open in the west, is fringed on the north and the south by high hills, 
while behind you rise the majestic summits of the mountain range 
you have just passed. For four miles you ride along much of the 
way under the shade of overhanging trees, meeting with no house, 
and no signs of human life, except the road over which you are 
travelling. A turn in the road suddenly opens to you a beautiful 
scene. In the midst of a smooth and verdant meadow appears the 
spacious hotel of Mr. Fabyan. The magnitude of this establish- 
ment, and the nice table which he spreads, seem to make his house 
the fashionable place of resort, though it is far less favorably situ- 
ated, in respect to scenery, than the house of Thomas Crawford, at 
the Notch. As you sit under the piazza, at Fabyan's, you see a 
range of high hills, covered with forest, running along the border 
of the valley, upon the north and the south, — the spurs or abut- 
7 



74 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

ments of the White Mountains, which, at the distance of about ten 
miles, rear their majestic summits into the clouds. 

" The next morning after our arrival at Fabyan's, we prepared 
to ascend Mount Washington. The scene of departure is a very 
interesting one. Immediately after breakfast, the horses were 
found, all saddled, standing by the side of the piazza, and the 
gentlemen and ladies, in a great variety of costume, were selecting 
their steeds for the mountain ride. Our party consisted of thirteen, 
— three ladies, nine gentlemen, and a guide with a knapsack con- 
taining provisions for our picnic upon the summit. All the com- 
pany in the house were assembled to witness the departure. The 
whole scene was one of unusual animation and hilarity. Soon, all 
were mounted, and, starting off at a brisk trot, we rode along the 
road for about a mile and a half. Then, striking into a little bridle- 
path, just wide enough for one horse, and entirely overarched with 
trees, we trotted along in single file, now ascending, and again de- 
scending ; now riding along the banks of a rushing mountain-stream, 
and again fording the torrent, with the water nearly to the saddle- 
girths, — occasionally emerging into some little opening, where 
mountain torrents had swept away the trees, and immediately 
again plunging into the gloom of the eternal forest. The road, 
generally following the meandering banks of the Ammonoosuc 
Kiyer, — here a foaming mountain torrent, — was smooth, and 
easy for the feet of the horses, so that our long cavalcade, one 
behind the other, proceeded very briskly on its way, enlivening 
the passing hours with conversation, and jokes, and fragments of 
song. A ride of six miles, over this delightful valley road, brought 
us to the foot of Mount Washington ; and now we commenced the 
arduous ascent. The path is as steep as a horse can climb, and 
winds wildly about among rocks, and stumps, and prostrate trees, 
and over ledges and crags where one would hardly think that a 
horse's foot could possibly stand. The horses toil, panting up the 
steep sides of the mountains, stopping, as I observed by my watch, 
every two minutes, to breathe. As I rode in the rear of the party, 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 75 

it was truly a picturesque sight to watch the long procession wind- 
ing its way among the crags above my head. We often passed 
springs of crystal water, gushing from the rocks ; and at one, in 
particular, about a third of the way up the mountain, called the 
' Moss Spring,' and where there chanced to be a level spot of per- 
haps two rods square, the whole party dismounted for ten minutes, 
to refresli the horses, and to refresh themselves with water as pure 
as mortal man can drink. 

*' We were soon again on our way, and the forest trees, which 
had towered so loftily above our heads, rapidly dwindled in size, 
till they became but one or two feet in height, and spread their 
gnarled and scraggy branches over the ground. We soon rose 
above this stunted vegetation, and the horses climbed from rock to 
rock over the bald face of the mountain ; and there was revealed 
below us a wild and solitary world of sombre forests, and mountain 
ranges furrowed by avalanches, and peaks rising on every side, and 
torrents, now visible by a silvery foam leaping down some rocky 
bed, and again only by a long line in the forest, showing the path 
it had cut through the trees. The precipitous ascent now became 
at times rather fearful, and one could not but shudder, as he looked 
down into the gloomy gulfs below him, at the thought of the conse- 
quence of one misstep by his horse. When we had arrived within 
about half a mile of the summit of the mountain, we came to a 
dilapidated stone hut, without door or roof, and here we left the 
horses, though adventurous persons do sometimes keep upon their 
backs, and climb over these precipitous and crumbling masses of 
granite, to the very top of the mountain. We^ however, found the 
last half mile as arduous an undertaking as we were willing to ad- 
venture, even on foot. Climbing slowly, in Indian file, among the 
huge blocks of stone, which are piled together in all imaginable 
confusion, we soon stood upon the summit. There is something 
awful in the aspect of the dark, crushed, storm-worn crags which 
compose the brow of this mountain-monarch. No life is seen here ; 
no sounds are heard but the rush of the storm and the roar of the 



76 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

thunder. A scene of wildness and desolation is spread around, 
which is indescribable, but which arouses in the soul the highest 
emotions of sublimity. An ocean of mountains is outspread in 
every direction. Dark and gloomy gulfs, thousands of feet in 
depth, are opened before you. In the almost boundless expanse 
of dreariness and desolation, hardly a vestige of human habitation 
can be seen. The soul is oppressed with a sense of loneliness, soli- 
tude, and omnipotent power. It is the mount of meditation. It is 
the altar for spiritual sacrifice and prayer. The majesty of God 
and the insignificance of man stand in such strons; contrast that the 
meditative soul is overwhelmed with gratitude and adoration. 

'' We spent an hour upon the summit. It was the middle of 
July. At a short distance from us were seen several acres of 
snow. Spreading our refreshments upon a flat rock, we partook 
of our repast, and at four o'clock we were greeted by our friends, 
at Fabyan's, as we dismounted at his door. 

" The question is often asked, Is it wise for ladies to undertake 
the ascent ? My advice is this : If a lady is in feeble health, or 
of very nervous temperament, she will find herself far more com- 
fortable to remain in her rocking-chair, at Fabyan's. But if a lady 
is in ordinary health, and has the least love of adventure, or the 
least susceptibility to emotions of the sublime, let her by no means 
forego the pleasure of the enterprise. Every hour will be fraught 
with luxury, and the remembrance will be a source of joy while life 
shall last." 

The Notch of the White Mountains is a very nan'ow defile, ex- 
tending for two miles between huge cliffs, apparently rent asunder 
by some vast convulsion of nature. The entrance of the chasm, on 
the east side, is formed by two rocks, standing perpendicularly, 
about twenty feet from each other. The road from Portland to 
Lancaster, on the Connecticut River, passes through this notch, 
followinof the course of the head stream of the Saco River. A 

o 

short distance from the commencement of the chasm is a beautiful 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 77 

cascade, issuing from a mountain on the right, and passing over a 
series of rocks almost perpendicular, with a course so little broken 
as to preserve the appearance of a uniform current. This stream, 
one of the most beautiful in the world, falls over a stupendous 
precipice, forming the Silver Cascade. About a mile distant 
from the Notch is the Flume, a stream of water falling over three 
precipices, from a height of two hundred and fifty feet. It falls 
over the first two in a single stream, and over the last in three. 
These are again united, at the bottom, in a natural basin formed in 
the rocks. The Projile ^fountain is about three miles south from 
Mount Lafayette, and rises to the height of about one thousand 
feet. It is near the road leading from Franconia, by the foot of 
the Haystack Mountain, to Plymouth and Concord. The bare 
rock on which the profile is delineated is granite. From its long 
exposure to the atmosphere, it is, however, of a dark reddish-brown. 
A side-view of this projecting rock, near the peak of the mountain, 
in a northern direction, exhibits the profile of the human face, in 
which every line and feature is distinctly marked. But after pass- 
ing the mountain, to the south, the likeness is immediately lost. 
The Willey House stands in the Notch, on the westerly side of 
the road, a short distance from the bluff, which rises to the height 
of about two thousand feet. This was formerly occupied by Cap- 
tain Willey, who, with his wife, five children, and two men, was 
destroyed, on the 28th of August, 1826, by an avalanche, or slide, 
from the mountain. 

** Nearly in range of the house, a slide, from the extreme point 
of the westerly hill, came down, in a deep mass, to within about 
five rods of the dwelling, where its course appears to have been 
checked by a large block of granite, which backed the rolling mass 
for a moment, until it separated into two streams, one of which 
rushed down to the north end of the house, crushing the barn, and 
spreading itself over the meadow ; the other passing down on the 
south side, and swallowing up the unfortunate beings, who, proba- 
7# 



78 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

bly, attempted to fly to a shelter, which, it is said, had been erected 
a few rods distant. This shelter was completely overwhelmed. 
Kocks, weighing from ten to fifty tons, being scattered in every 
direction about the place, rendered escape impossible. The house 
remained untouched, though large stones and trunks of trees made 
fearful approaches to its walls ; and the moving mass, which sepa- 
rated behind the building, again united in its front ! The house 
alone, the only spot untouched by the crumbling and consuming 
power of the storm, could have been their refuge from the horrible 
uproar around." 

A large, three-storied hotel, painted white, now occupies the site 
of the Willey House ; yet this curiosity has been preserved, and 
forms part of the establishment. 

The White Mountains are surrounded on all sides with objects and 
curiosities worthy of the attention of one who travels for pleasure. 
But, after all, his success in being pleased will depend upon the 
spirit with which he starts upon his tour. To one who sets out and 
travels as many miles a day as he possibly can, by steam and horse- 
power; who leaves his business at home with doubtful assistance, and 
who is hurrying back for fear something may be wrong at home ; to 
such an one, no rural scenes can bring rest or recreation. The travel- 
ler must bring to the dense forests of the country, — to the still and 
quiet scenes of rural life, a mind and body free from care, or his 
search for enjoyment will be oftentimes in vain. 

It is a matter of surprise that a visit to the White Mountains on 
foot is not oftener attempted. Of coui'se, when ladies are of the 
party, the thing is quite out of the question. In Europe such 
journeys are very common. Indeed, a larger portion of travellers 
through Switzerland go on foot, after riding by rail to the neighbor- 
hood. A walk of twelve or fifteen miles per day fatigues one but 
very little, and then there is ample time to have some sort of an 
idea of the beauty of rural haunts, which, in other cases, is sadly 
curtailed by the speed at which they are often passed. 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 79 

Albert Smith, the author of various popular works in England, is 
perhaps one of the most famous pedestrians now living. lie has 
been over most of the continent of JEurope, and frequently on foot. 
The following description of his " outfit" may not be uninteresting 
here, in case these foot excursions should ever become fashionable 
in America. One, at least, will try the experiment the present 
year_, and "report thereon " 

" I may now, perhaps, interest some of my readers in detailing 
the time which I myself took ; and I will also add — I believe on 
a novel plan — the expenses and the distances of each day. 

" I must premise I started with a companion, and we each had a 
knapsack to carry our things. This latter article was made for me 
by Mr. Brown, saddler, of Chertsey, and cost £1. It was four 
inches deep, thirteen broad, and twelve long. A round tin case 
at the top was added afterwards. It was in three portions, for bet- 
ter dividing the articles it contained, and one of these could turn, 
upon emergency, into a sort of saucepan, to go over a spirit lamp 
which went inside it. It was at times useful for furnishing hot 
water, when there would otherwise have been a difficulty in pro- 
curing it. 

" I contrived to put the following articles into my knapsack. It 
was tolerably heavy when charged, but I am blessed with broad 
shoulders and a good constitution, and I never felt distressed : — 

" A coat, waistcoat, and trowsers, of thin black tweed, which were 
very light, and, when folded up, could have been put in a hat. 
These were for such occasions as might occur, when something like 
evening dress was necessary. They were made for me at a small 
expense. 

" A pair of light French hrodequins. 

* ' Five shirts ; four colored and one white — also for great occa- 
sions. 

" Four pocket handkerchiefs. 

•* Two black silk neck-ties. 



80 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

" Four pairs of lamb's-wool socks. 

"Comb and brush; with some oil-silk bags for holding soap, 
sponge, nail and tooth-brush. 

"A 'house-wife,' containing pins, needles and thread, scissors 
and buttons. 

" (These latter articles went in the pocket at the side of the 
knapsack, for ready use.) 

" In the tin case at the top I had a strange collection of things. 
They comprised a few seidlitz powders, some laudanum, and a box 
of Brokedon's compressed soda. I also tucked in some sticking- 
plaster, a dozen steel pens, a portable ink-stand, with writing 
paper, a box of water-colors, note-books, string, lucifers, and other 
minor comforts. When all these things were packed, there was 
still room for what few souvenirs I might collect on the way. 

" My travelling-dress was a blue blouse with useful pockets, and 
a broad-brimmed felt hat. I started in a cap, but the sun so caught 
my face on the Moselle, that I bought the hat at Metz. I had a 
stout pair of shoes — not too thick, which is a great mistake ; and a 
kind of pouch to hang at my side, and hold a hand-book or map, 
block drawing-book, knife, &c. 

"The great advantage of a knapsack — and I speak from the 
experience of several tours made with one — is, that you are so 
completely your own master. You are dependent upon no porters, 
mules, or conveyances ; you come and go as you please, and you 
have always got all you have about you. Your expenses are also 
considerably diminished. The above list may be altered, accord- 
ing to the views of the tourist, but I do not think he will be able 
to improve it, so as to increase his comfort." 



WM. GUILD & CO., 

120 WASmNGTON STREET, BOSTON, AND 135 NASSAU STREET, NEW YORK, 
rUBLISH THE FOLLOWING 

EAILROAD CHARTS: 

NUMBER I. 

BOSTON TO ALBANY. 



NUMBER II. 

BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

Each of the above is complete in itself, and profusely illustrated with 
wood engravings of the principal Villages, Bridges, Cuttings, Stations, and 
other objects of interest upon the route ; all of which are taken from nature. 
A chart of the entire line upon a scale of one inch to a mile, is given, 
showing every road or river crossing, the stations, the inclinations of the 
track, and a great variety of other information of interest to the traveller or 
those interested in these steam thoroughfares. 

PRICE 25 CENTS EACH. 

D:^ Enclose 30 cents in postage stamps, and a copy of the above will be 

SENT TO ANY ADDRESS, POST FAID. 

NUMBER III. 

HUDSON RIVER &. THE HUDSON RIVER R. ROAD. 

Containing a Map of Hudson River and vicinity, upwards of six feet 
in length, neatly folded, so as to be examined without opening. The Map is 
upon a scale of half an inch to a mile, and shows the exact plan of the 
River, and the location of the Railroad. It is accompanied by fifty pages 
of letter press, giving a full and comprehensive description of the River 
and Railroad, illustrated with a great number of wood engravings of the 
principal objects of interest to the traveller upon that route. 

PRICE 25 CENTS. 

Enclose 30 cents in postage stamps, and a copy of the above work will be 

SENT TO ANY ADDRESS, POST PAID. 

NUMBER IV. 

NEW YORK AND THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

With a complete map, and wood-cut views of the principal objects of 
interest upon the line. 

PRICE 25 CENTS. 
V^ Other numbers are in preparation. 



^ 



